Iridis project is divided into two main areas, one is related to the classical tailoring and the other one about new technology for the custom-made garments. The first part develops from a deep research on men’s tailoring, in particular it focuses on the transition from British traditional tailoring to Italian one. Successively the Neapolitan tailoring is analysed, due to the fact that it is deeply related to the Grand Tour trip, since XVII century. During the whole analysis the focus is on the jacket, an icon piece of a lot of “tailoring schools”. Thus the modelling and the different local theories about the structure and the construction of the jacket become fundamental. The customisation and customer experience related to the tailor world are very important focuses, which could be expressed in a project that is no longer a simple product but become a service, with a link to the “fashion product/system”. Furthermore, the evolution of tailoring and how it has been applied to the fashion in the last years must be considered. For this reason, it’s very interesting to underline how Armani, Gaultier, Miyake and other designers, deeply changed the social meaning of the “structural traditional tailoring codes” during the 70s. The second part involves body scanner and new 3D software. Clo3D is used to prototype the garments and allows the improvement of tailoring craftsmanship, which is based on the traditional know how. In order to pursue this strategy, a woman and a man has been scanned, using an infrared body scanner, and through Clo3D there was a first digital prototyping. During the whole process there was an analysis of advantages and disadvantages of this process. The result of the production could be even near to the ready-to-wear. Indeed using Clo3D to develop clothing makes possible to sensibly reduce the cost impact of the process, in order to have custom made garments with lower prices allowing to compete with the more oriented ready-to-wear brands. Finally these two universes of tailoring and of technological know-how are integrated in the final product of the collection.
Il progetto Iridis è diviso in due grandi aree, una relativa alla sartoria classica e l’altra riguardante le nuove tecnologie per gli abiti su misura. Per quanto riguarda la prima parte, essa consiste in una ricerca sartoriale che parte dalla sartoria inglese e arriva sino alla napoletana. Durante tutta la ricerca iniziale l’attenzione è posta sulla giacca sartoriale e le varie scuole di sartoria che l’hanno interpretata. Così il su misura e l’esperienza del cliente diventano punti cardine, che possono essere espressi in un progetto che non è più un semplice prodotto, ma diventa servizio, con un forte collegamento al sistema moda. Inoltre grande attenzione è posta sull’evoluzione della sartoria e come questa è stata usata dai grandi designer e ha contaminato il ready-to-wear. Di conseguenza è impossibile non considerare come Armani, Miyake e Gaultier abbiano cambiato profondamente il significato dei codici sartoriali tradizionali, durante gli anni ‘70. Questi designer hanno avuto un grande impatto sul ready-to-wear e il suo sviluppo. La seconda parte della ricerca riguarda l’uso dei body scanner e di Clo3D, per sviluppare una collezione su misura, dapprima prototipata con mezzi tecnologici e in seguito realizzata con tecniche sartoriali. Per Realizzare questo obiettivo, un ragazzo e una ragazza sono stati scansionati con l’uso di un body scanning, per poi costruire sulle loro mesh 3D gli abiti della collezione precedentemente progettati. Durante la fase di prototipazione, sono emersi pregi, possibilità e limiti del connubio sartoria-tecnologia. Infine, sono emersi vantaggi significativi riguardo all’uso di Clo3D, con un cospicuo abbassamento dei costi e la possibilità di poter fondare brand orientati al ready-to-wear ma basati su una produzione semi-sartoriale su misura.
Iridis. Biometric tailoring
MALDINI, MICHELA
2017/2018
Abstract
Iridis project is divided into two main areas, one is related to the classical tailoring and the other one about new technology for the custom-made garments. The first part develops from a deep research on men’s tailoring, in particular it focuses on the transition from British traditional tailoring to Italian one. Successively the Neapolitan tailoring is analysed, due to the fact that it is deeply related to the Grand Tour trip, since XVII century. During the whole analysis the focus is on the jacket, an icon piece of a lot of “tailoring schools”. Thus the modelling and the different local theories about the structure and the construction of the jacket become fundamental. The customisation and customer experience related to the tailor world are very important focuses, which could be expressed in a project that is no longer a simple product but become a service, with a link to the “fashion product/system”. Furthermore, the evolution of tailoring and how it has been applied to the fashion in the last years must be considered. For this reason, it’s very interesting to underline how Armani, Gaultier, Miyake and other designers, deeply changed the social meaning of the “structural traditional tailoring codes” during the 70s. The second part involves body scanner and new 3D software. Clo3D is used to prototype the garments and allows the improvement of tailoring craftsmanship, which is based on the traditional know how. In order to pursue this strategy, a woman and a man has been scanned, using an infrared body scanner, and through Clo3D there was a first digital prototyping. During the whole process there was an analysis of advantages and disadvantages of this process. The result of the production could be even near to the ready-to-wear. Indeed using Clo3D to develop clothing makes possible to sensibly reduce the cost impact of the process, in order to have custom made garments with lower prices allowing to compete with the more oriented ready-to-wear brands. Finally these two universes of tailoring and of technological know-how are integrated in the final product of the collection.File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/143564