The fashion industry is a business which has huge impact on environment and society. Textile is an unsustainable business. It is the second polluting industry worldwide due to CO2 emission of clothing waste discarded on the landfills, and it is one of the biggest exploitation of water. Moreover, there are many scandals regarding the labors’ working condition in this domain. Therefore, many firms have started to implement sustainable and circular practices to gain the reputation and decrease their ecological footprint. The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between new product development and supply chain management practices in fashion industry to know how they related to one another and how they support the implementation of circular economy. Moreover, this study has explored the driver that push firms towards applying circular business model as well as identifying the barriers that hinders the execution of such a model. The study from literature review approach of 38 papers from which 18 were mainly focused on SCM and 8 on the NPD and 6 have NPD-SCM alignment (other 12 papers mainly focused on drivers, barrier and enablers) has found out that the cradle to cradle approach is one of the most important alignments that consider remanufacturing and divert textile waste from the design phase. Also, life cycle assessment is another cross section that tries to find out the environmental impact of the product during all stages from supply till disposal. Material selection and eco design, collaboration with stake holders to come up with new technological advancement are the other alignments that facilitate the shift from linear to circular economy. Also, it was found that clothing complex design in terms of mixture of material and various components is linked to the capability of clothing to be remanufactured thus, less clothing complexity enable the recycling process. Moreover, several drivers has driven firm to execute sustainable and circular practice. The drivers encompasses customer environmental awareness, academic research regarding sustainable and circular fashion, nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) and media’s attack that enforce firms to be more transparent about their supply chain practices and reduce their environmental impact. However, still high cost for implementation, lack of infrastructure, lack of management commitment and the low volume of textile waste have been found as the biggest barriers for implementation of such a model. The execution of circular economy practices in fashion reduces the amount waste caused by this industry and save the finite material and energy resources which are crucial for future. In addition, the implementation of circular system could result in many new entrepreneurial jobs that can boost the economy. In this study the number of used papers was narrow as the topic was quite new and the focus is on a single industry.
L'industria della moda è un business che ha un enorme impatto sull'ambiente e sulla società. Il tessile è infatti un'attività diventata insostenibile in quanto è la seconda industria mondiale causa di inquinamento e di emissioni di CO2 provenienti dai rifiuti di abbigliamento abbandonati nelle discariche. Il settore inoltre èuno dei maggiori sfruttatori di risorse idriche ed è stato oggetto di diversi scandali riguardanti le condizioni sociali. Per queste ragioni molte aziende hanno iniziato ad implementare pratiche sostenibili e circolari per migliorare la loro reputazione e ridurre l'impatto ambientale. Lo scopo di questo studio è quello di indagare la relazione tra lo sviluppo di nuovi prodotti e le pratiche di gestione della supply chain al fine di capire come si relazionano tra loro e come supportano l’'implementazione di un’ economia circolare. Questo studio ha esplorato il driver che spingono le aziende ad applicare il modello di business circolare e ad identificare le barriere che ostacolano l'esecuzione di tale modello. Lo studio è basato su una revisione della letteratura sul tema costituita da 38 articoli di cui 18 sono principalmente focalizzati sulla gestione della supplychain e 8 sul processo di sviluppo nuovo prodotto. 6 articoli sono invece focalizzati sull’allineamento tra i due processi . Infine 12 articoli sono incentrati principalmente su fattori determinanti, abilitanti e barriere. Questa analisi ha portato come risultatoche l'approccio “cradle to cradle” è uno degli allineamenti più importanti che considerano la rigenerazione e deviano i rifiuti tessili dalla fase di progettazione. Inoltre, la valutazione del ciclo di vita è un'altra sezione trasversale che cerca di scoprire l'impatto ambientale del prodotto durante tutte le fasi dalla fornitura fino allo smaltimento. Scelta dei materiali ed eco design, la collaborazione con gli stakeholder per proporre nuovi progressi tecnologici sono gli altri allineamenti che facilitano il passaggio dall'economia lineare a quella circolare. Inoltre, è stato riscontrato che il design complesso dell'abbigliamento in termini di miscela di materiali e componenti diversi è legato alla capacità degli indumenti di essere rigenerati, quindi meno la complessità dell'abbigliamento consente il processo di riciclaggio. Inoltre, diversi driver hanno spinto l'azienda a mettere in atto pratiche sostenibili e circolari. I driver comprendono la consapevolezza ambientale del cliente, la ricerca accademica sulla moda sostenibile e circolare, il supporto organizzazioni non governative (ONG) e l'attacco dei media che impongono alle imprese di essere più trasparenti riguardo alle loro pratiche di filiera e ridurre il loro impatto ambientale. Tuttavia, i costi ancora elevati per l'implementazione, la mancanza di infrastrutture, la mancanza di linee guida chaire da parte del management e il basso volume di rifiuti tessili sono stati considerati i maggiori ostacoli per l'implementazione di tale modello. L'implementazione delle pratiche dell'economia circolare nella moda riduce la quantità di rifiuti causati da questa industria e risparmia le materie prime finite e le risorse energetiche che sono cruciali per il futuro. Inoltre, l'implementazione di un sistema circolare potrebbe portare a molte nuovi occupazionie stimoli per l'economia. Questo studio è basato su un’analisi della letteratura. Il numero di articoli analizzatiè limitato poiché l'argomento è piuttosto nuovo e il focus è su un singolo settore.
Literature review of sustainable fashion supply chain and new product development for the implementation of the circular economy
DANESHI, FATEMEH;MIRPOURIAN, MARYAM
2017/2018
Abstract
The fashion industry is a business which has huge impact on environment and society. Textile is an unsustainable business. It is the second polluting industry worldwide due to CO2 emission of clothing waste discarded on the landfills, and it is one of the biggest exploitation of water. Moreover, there are many scandals regarding the labors’ working condition in this domain. Therefore, many firms have started to implement sustainable and circular practices to gain the reputation and decrease their ecological footprint. The purpose of this study is to investigate the relationship between new product development and supply chain management practices in fashion industry to know how they related to one another and how they support the implementation of circular economy. Moreover, this study has explored the driver that push firms towards applying circular business model as well as identifying the barriers that hinders the execution of such a model. The study from literature review approach of 38 papers from which 18 were mainly focused on SCM and 8 on the NPD and 6 have NPD-SCM alignment (other 12 papers mainly focused on drivers, barrier and enablers) has found out that the cradle to cradle approach is one of the most important alignments that consider remanufacturing and divert textile waste from the design phase. Also, life cycle assessment is another cross section that tries to find out the environmental impact of the product during all stages from supply till disposal. Material selection and eco design, collaboration with stake holders to come up with new technological advancement are the other alignments that facilitate the shift from linear to circular economy. Also, it was found that clothing complex design in terms of mixture of material and various components is linked to the capability of clothing to be remanufactured thus, less clothing complexity enable the recycling process. Moreover, several drivers has driven firm to execute sustainable and circular practice. The drivers encompasses customer environmental awareness, academic research regarding sustainable and circular fashion, nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) and media’s attack that enforce firms to be more transparent about their supply chain practices and reduce their environmental impact. However, still high cost for implementation, lack of infrastructure, lack of management commitment and the low volume of textile waste have been found as the biggest barriers for implementation of such a model. The execution of circular economy practices in fashion reduces the amount waste caused by this industry and save the finite material and energy resources which are crucial for future. In addition, the implementation of circular system could result in many new entrepreneurial jobs that can boost the economy. In this study the number of used papers was narrow as the topic was quite new and the focus is on a single industry.| File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/145835