The project starts analyzing the current scenario established between designer and territory. They have a really specific relationship, based on what everyone called Traces; Traces are a source of memory and at the same time of the future. They produce wealth and culture, tell stories, testify facts, pass on ethics, exalt aesthetics. Traces give life to stories, which in turn suggest and give shape to products, services, actions and events; all together, they enrich the imaginary by producing social and cultural value. Through a process of belonging and transformation new tracks are generated. The archive can be consider as a giant collector of traces belonging to a specific company. The archives constitute a real intangible heritage representative of Italian culture. Specific and strategic points have been set up, defined as industrial districts, by companies that are profoundly specialized in a specific branch of production, with the intention of conserving the best artefacts for future developments and research. The archive thus constituted, made in Italy’ s DNA, allows designers to relate with the company history and identity, allowing to have, at the design stage, a cultural approach not only limited to the brand but to the country of production. The forms, the fabrics, the traditions preserved in these great archives represent the know-how of the territory, of Italy in general. In this way, the approach of the designers is not only conditioned by quick research on the internet, but the gaze is mainly revived at the roots of the fashion house. The project tries to explain how the business archive becomes a fundamental tool for knowledge, an instrument that generates and transforms material and that deeply influences the way of thinking, planning and planning actions and relationships between artistic artifacts, inspirations and contemporaneousness . The collected materials are interpreted according to new and not existing methods to define an evolutionary process of the custom and of the society able to general projects and unconventional products. After a careful analysis of the most significant fashion archives in the contemporary scene, the project explores the Max Mara case study. Everything is fundamental to understand the identity of this brand: the philosophy of the brand, its history, its way of communicating, the library and the business archive ... everything reflects the belief of the founder, Achille Maramotti, and of his sons after him. After this first part of the research, the project unfolds in a capsule collection inspired by the iconic garments jealously kept by their archive.
Il progetto analizza il rapporto odierno tra designer e territorio. Questi due soggetti si relazionano in modo molto particolare, tramite quelle che vengono definite Tracce; Le tracce sono una fonte di memoria del passato e del futuro allo stesso tempo. Producono ricchezza e cultura, raccontano storie, testimoniano fatti, trasmettono etica, esaltano l'estetica. Le tracce danno vita a storie che a loro volta suggeriscono e danno forma a prodotti, servizi, azioni ed eventi; tutti insieme, arricchiscono l'immaginario producendo valore sociale e culturale. Attraverso un processo di appartenenza e trasformazione vengono generate nuove tracce. L'archivio può essere considerato come un gigantesco collezionista di tracce appartenenti a un'azienda specifica e non solo. Gli archivi divengono in questo modo vero e autentico patrimonio immateriale rappresentativo della cultura italiana. In Italia sono stati istituiti punti specifici e strategici, definiti Distretti Industriali, da aziende profondamente specializzate in uno specifico settore di produzione, con l'intenzione di conservare i migliori artefatti per gli sviluppi futuri e la ricerca. L 'archivio così costituito consente ai designer di relazionarsi con la storia e l'identità dell'azienda, permettendo di avere, in fase di progettazione, un approccio culturale non solo limitato al marchio ma al paese di produzione. Le forme, i tessuti, le tradizioni conservate in questi grandi archivi rappresentano il know-how del territorio, dell'Italia in generale. In questo modo, l'approccio dei designer non è solo condizionato da una rapida ricerca su Internet, ma lo sguardo è principalmente rivolto alle radici della casa di moda. Il progetto cerca di spiegare come l'archivio aziendale diventa uno strumento fondamentale per la conoscenza, uno strumento che genera e trasforma materiale e che influenza profondamente il modo di pensare, pianificare e pianificare azioni e relazioni tra artefatti artistici, ispirazioni e contemporaneità. I materiali raccolti sono interpretati secondo metodi nuovi e inconsueti per dar vita ad un processo evolutivo progettuale originale e attuale. Dopo un'attenta analisi degli archivi di moda più significativi della scena contemporanea, il progetto esplora il caso studio di Max Mara. Tutto è fondamentale per capire l'identità di questo marchio: la filosofia del marchio, la sua storia, il suo modo di comunicare, la biblioteca e l'archivio aziendale ... ogni elemento riflette la convinzione del fondatore, Achille Maramotti, e dei suoi figli dopo di lui. Dopo questa prima parte della ricerca, il progetto si sviluppa in una capsule collection ispirata agli abiti iconici custoditi gelosamente dal loro archivio ed esposti in occasione di una mostra a Guastalla (RE) organizzata e voluta fortemente dalla fashion coordinator del brand, Laura Lusuardi.
Archive : memory from the past and creative source for the future
ROSSI, FRANCESCA
2018/2019
Abstract
The project starts analyzing the current scenario established between designer and territory. They have a really specific relationship, based on what everyone called Traces; Traces are a source of memory and at the same time of the future. They produce wealth and culture, tell stories, testify facts, pass on ethics, exalt aesthetics. Traces give life to stories, which in turn suggest and give shape to products, services, actions and events; all together, they enrich the imaginary by producing social and cultural value. Through a process of belonging and transformation new tracks are generated. The archive can be consider as a giant collector of traces belonging to a specific company. The archives constitute a real intangible heritage representative of Italian culture. Specific and strategic points have been set up, defined as industrial districts, by companies that are profoundly specialized in a specific branch of production, with the intention of conserving the best artefacts for future developments and research. The archive thus constituted, made in Italy’ s DNA, allows designers to relate with the company history and identity, allowing to have, at the design stage, a cultural approach not only limited to the brand but to the country of production. The forms, the fabrics, the traditions preserved in these great archives represent the know-how of the territory, of Italy in general. In this way, the approach of the designers is not only conditioned by quick research on the internet, but the gaze is mainly revived at the roots of the fashion house. The project tries to explain how the business archive becomes a fundamental tool for knowledge, an instrument that generates and transforms material and that deeply influences the way of thinking, planning and planning actions and relationships between artistic artifacts, inspirations and contemporaneousness . The collected materials are interpreted according to new and not existing methods to define an evolutionary process of the custom and of the society able to general projects and unconventional products. After a careful analysis of the most significant fashion archives in the contemporary scene, the project explores the Max Mara case study. Everything is fundamental to understand the identity of this brand: the philosophy of the brand, its history, its way of communicating, the library and the business archive ... everything reflects the belief of the founder, Achille Maramotti, and of his sons after him. After this first part of the research, the project unfolds in a capsule collection inspired by the iconic garments jealously kept by their archive.| File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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Francesca Rossi tesi final .pdf
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Descrizione: Tesi Magistrale Francesca Rossi
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/149321