The fashion industry is the second most polluting in the world after the petrochemical industry characterized by an untransparent and unsustainable supply chain. Growing awareness on this issue has led to recent questioning of the whole system and the way in which clothing is produced on a global scale. The Fashion Pact, a document drafted during the G7 in August 2019 in Biarritz, France, marks an important step towards a more sustainable future through the signature of 32 fashion brands that are committed to working on three shared goals: stopping global warming, restoring biodiversity and protecting the oceans. The Green Deal is the action plan presented by the European Union in December 2019, in order to promote the efficient use of resources by switching to a clean and circular economy. The aim is to transform climate issues and environmental challenges into opportunities in all political and economic sectors, making the transition fair and inclusive for all. These events unequivocally demonstrate the awareness and call to action to which every small part of the fashion system can’t escape. The proposed social and political reality determines the core of the thesis project that investigates the relationship between fashion and the environment and the state of the art of today. The objective extends to possible solutions that, compatible with existing technologies, contribute to the improvement. The research is limited to a particular slice of the market that is sportswear fashion, in order to deal more deeply with the theme. The choice of sportswear is dictated by its wide diffusion, the degree of technology and research at its disposal and a particular personal interest in this sector. Focusing on the awareness that all the forces at stake share responsibility for the negative impact of fashion on the environment along its different stages, the project focuses on the initial stage of design, capable of controlling up to 80% of the sustainability attributes of a product. The initial phase includes the choice of materials and the design by designers through creative solutions and specific paths for sustainability. Research maps the main materials used in sports fashion and their sustainability and performance characteristics. This list is followed by a market research that includes all those innovative and sustainable textile fibers, less widespread but equally suitable for application in the sportswear world. The material evaluation is based on the use of appropriate sustainability measurement tools such as LCA, Higg Index, Nike MSI and EP&L. The comparison of the scores of the different tools reveals better and worst materials ranked according to the environmental impact that their production determines. The thesis addresses the Circular Economy model from a theoretical and practical point of view, suggesting sustainable approaches to the use of materials such as reuse design, recycling, biodegradability and 3D printing. All the information obtained is schematized in tables that put in place, for example, the compatibility of materials with respect to each of these practical approaches, and the main brands that use them. Also mentioned in the text are the most accredited tools to support the action of designers extrapolated from annual reports and official articles of the world's leading sustainability organizations. The result of the research is the application of the different knowledge learned to a collection designed for the emerging brand F_WD. The project consists of a main collection to which are added several capsules that interpret each time a different aspect of circular design, with a focus on the choice of materials. In the light of the considerations made, the change required of the fashion system is radical. Although the transformation is still in its infancy, there is a great deal of excitement around the issues of sustainability and circularity on which many companies and organizations are working to ensure a better future for civil society and the entire planet.
L’industria della moda è la seconda più inquinante al mondo dopo quella petrolchimica caratterizzata da una filiera poco trasparente e insostenibile. La consapevolezza crescente su questo tema ha fatto sì che, in tempi recenti, fosse messo in discussione l’intero sistema ed il modo in cui l’abbigliamento viene prodotto su scala mondiale. Il Fashion Pact, documento redatto durante il G7 nell’agosto 2019 a Biarritz, in Francia, segna un importante passo verso un futuro più sostenibile attraverso la firma di 32 marchi di moda che si impegnano a lavorare su tre obiettivi condivisi: arrestare il riscaldamento globale, ripristinare la biodiversità e proteggere gli oceani. Il Green Deal è il piano d’azione presentato dall’Unione Europea nel dicembre 2019, al fine di promuovere l'uso efficiente delle risorse passando a un'economia pulita e circolare. L’obiettivo è trasformare le problematiche climatiche e le sfide ambientali in opportunità in tutti i settori politici ed economici, rendendo la transizione equa ed inclusiva per tutti. Questi eventi dimostrano inequivocabilmente la presa di coscienza e la chiamata all’azione a cui ogni piccola parte del sistema moda non può sottrarsi. Lo spaccato sociale e politico proposto determina il fulcro del progetto di tesi che indaga la relazione tra moda e ambiente e lo stato dell’arte di oggi. L’obiettivo si estende alle possibili soluzioni che, compatibilmente alle tecnologie esistenti, contribuiscono al miglioramento. La ricerca è ristretta ad una particolare fetta di mercato che è la moda sportiva, al fine di affrontare più in profondità il tema. La scelta dello sportswear è dettata dalla sua grande diffusione, dal grado di tecnologia e ricerca di cui dispone e da un particolare interesse personale verso questo settore. Mettendo in primo piano la consapevolezza che tutte le forze in gioco condividono le responsabilità dell’impatto negativo della moda sull’ambiente lungo le sue diverse fasi, il progetto si focalizza sullo stadio iniziale della progettazione, capace di controllare fino all’80% degli attributi di sostenibilità di un prodotto. Nella fase iniziale rientrano la scelta dei materiali e la progettazione da parte dei designer attraverso soluzioni creative e percorsi specifici per la sostenibilità. La ricerca mappa i principali materiali utilizzati nella moda sportiva e le loro caratteristiche di sostenibilità e prestazione. A questo elenco segue una ricerca di mercato che include invece tutte quelle fibre tessili innovative e sostenibili, meno diffuse ma ugualmente adatte all’applicazione nel mondo sportswear. La valutazione dei materiali si basa sull’utilizzo di appositi tool di misurazione della sostenibilità come LCA, Higg Index, Nike MSI e EP&L. Dal confronto dei punteggi dei differenti tool emergono materiali migliori e peggiori classificati in base all’impatto ambientale che la loro produzione determina. La tesi affronta il modello di Economia Circolare sotto i punti di vista teorico e pratico, suggerendo approcci sostenibili all’uso dei materiali come la progettazione per il riuso, il riciclo, la biodegradabilità e la stampa 3D. Tutte le informazioni ottenute sono schematizzate in tabelle che mettono a sistema, ad esempio, la compatibilità dei materiali rispetto ad ognuno di questi approcci pratici, ed i principali marchi che li utilizzano. Sono citati nel testo anche i più accreditati strumenti di supporto all’azione dei designer estrapolati da report annuali e articoli ufficiali delle maggiori organizzazioni mondiali nel campo della sostenibilità. Il risultato della ricerca è l’applicazione delle diverse nozioni apprese ad una collezione progettata per il marchio emergente F_WD. Il progetto è composto da una collezione main alla quale si aggiungono diverse capsule che interpretano ogni volta un aspetto diverso della progettazione circolare, con particolare attenzione alla scelta dei materiali. Alla luce delle considerazioni svolte, il cambiamento richiesto al sistema moda è radicale. Nonostante la trasformazione sia ancora nel suo stadio iniziale c’è grande fermento intorno ai temi della sostenibilità e della circolarità sui quali numerose aziende e organizzazioni stanno lavorando per garantire un futuro migliore alla società civile ed all’intero pianeta.
Moda e sostenibilità : analisi e valutazione degli approcci progettuali circolari ed eco-sostenibili nel settore dello sportswear
TROZZO, CATERINA
2018/2019
Abstract
The fashion industry is the second most polluting in the world after the petrochemical industry characterized by an untransparent and unsustainable supply chain. Growing awareness on this issue has led to recent questioning of the whole system and the way in which clothing is produced on a global scale. The Fashion Pact, a document drafted during the G7 in August 2019 in Biarritz, France, marks an important step towards a more sustainable future through the signature of 32 fashion brands that are committed to working on three shared goals: stopping global warming, restoring biodiversity and protecting the oceans. The Green Deal is the action plan presented by the European Union in December 2019, in order to promote the efficient use of resources by switching to a clean and circular economy. The aim is to transform climate issues and environmental challenges into opportunities in all political and economic sectors, making the transition fair and inclusive for all. These events unequivocally demonstrate the awareness and call to action to which every small part of the fashion system can’t escape. The proposed social and political reality determines the core of the thesis project that investigates the relationship between fashion and the environment and the state of the art of today. The objective extends to possible solutions that, compatible with existing technologies, contribute to the improvement. The research is limited to a particular slice of the market that is sportswear fashion, in order to deal more deeply with the theme. The choice of sportswear is dictated by its wide diffusion, the degree of technology and research at its disposal and a particular personal interest in this sector. Focusing on the awareness that all the forces at stake share responsibility for the negative impact of fashion on the environment along its different stages, the project focuses on the initial stage of design, capable of controlling up to 80% of the sustainability attributes of a product. The initial phase includes the choice of materials and the design by designers through creative solutions and specific paths for sustainability. Research maps the main materials used in sports fashion and their sustainability and performance characteristics. This list is followed by a market research that includes all those innovative and sustainable textile fibers, less widespread but equally suitable for application in the sportswear world. The material evaluation is based on the use of appropriate sustainability measurement tools such as LCA, Higg Index, Nike MSI and EP&L. The comparison of the scores of the different tools reveals better and worst materials ranked according to the environmental impact that their production determines. The thesis addresses the Circular Economy model from a theoretical and practical point of view, suggesting sustainable approaches to the use of materials such as reuse design, recycling, biodegradability and 3D printing. All the information obtained is schematized in tables that put in place, for example, the compatibility of materials with respect to each of these practical approaches, and the main brands that use them. Also mentioned in the text are the most accredited tools to support the action of designers extrapolated from annual reports and official articles of the world's leading sustainability organizations. The result of the research is the application of the different knowledge learned to a collection designed for the emerging brand F_WD. The project consists of a main collection to which are added several capsules that interpret each time a different aspect of circular design, with a focus on the choice of materials. In the light of the considerations made, the change required of the fashion system is radical. Although the transformation is still in its infancy, there is a great deal of excitement around the issues of sustainability and circularity on which many companies and organizations are working to ensure a better future for civil society and the entire planet.| File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/164784