We often talk about the publishing crisis in Italy, but what does it mean? The advent of technology in the early 2000s made the book industry tremble, which felt strongly threatened by modernity, which seemed to favour the screen over the paper media. However, digital reading has never definitively prevailed over traditional reading, and it is precisely the hope that the physical object is not destined to disappear that has supported the expansion of the phenomenon of independent and, in particular, periodical publishing. In fact, events dedicated to the sector are on the increase: important cultural poles from which creative projects are born that address hyper-selected targets, unlike the vast audience for which mainstream magazines are written. During the health emergency, caused by the Covid-19 pandemic that forced the entire world to lockdown, society found itself catapulted into slowed-down lifestyles, where it was possible to deepen its relationship with objects often forgotten due to lack of time and concentration: magazines and, in particular, those dealing with the fashion system. Why? Fashion tells the story of its time and the dedicated press has the power to communicate it to the public.At a time of substantial change, the fashion content in Italian magazines has shown that it can be renewed, remaining faithful to the story of the contemporary world. Although at the beginning of 2020 there had already been important media attempts to offer a narrative focused on social issues ("Vogue Italia" January 2020), it was in March, the month of the beginning of domestic confinement, that fashion communication in magazines really began to reinvent itself, giving rise to a journalism free of the frivolity to which women's magazines are often associated. Magazines have conveyed, and continue to do so, also expanding a digital discourse, a sense of community among their readers, through various initiatives; moreover, there has been a growing predominance of socially and politically committed content: a brand activism action that has involved a large part of the communication system in 2020. Sustainability, diversity and inclusion: the climate emergency and discrimination have never acquired as much importance as during Covid-19, between the humanitarian and economic tragedy and the Black Lives Matter protests. Today, difficulties have emerged that need solidarity to be overcome. Not only that: we are more aware of the transience of our planet. In fact, while Covid-19 has shown its devastating effects quickly, forcing governments to take me to extremes in the immediate future, global warming is slow but inexorable, sometimes silent but evident. The fashion system is one of the greatest contributors to global pollution: the path to improvement is long, perhaps economically disadvantageous, but necessary, and it is the consumer who asks for it. The fashion content in the newspapers is slowly changing: it is still not enough, but the foundations to create a more political and social fashion story have been laid. The communicative artifact that follows is a fashion magazine dedicated to sustainability: an archive-guide that deals with projects by emerging Italian brands and focuses on their positive action from both an ethical and ecological point of view.
Si parla spesso di crisi dell'editoria in Italia, ma cosa significa? L'avvento della tecnologia nei primi anni Duemila ha fatto tremare l'industria del libro, la quale si è sentita fortemente minacciata dalla modernità, che sembrava privilegiasse lo schermo a sfavore del media cartaceo. Tuttavia, la lettura digitale non ha mai prevalso, in modo definitivo, su quella tradizionale, ed è proprio la speranza che l'oggetto fisico non sia destinato a sparire che ha supportato l'espansione del fenomeno dell'editoria indipendente e, in particolare, di quella periodica. Infatti, sono in aumento eventi dedicati al settore: importanti poli culturali da cui nascono progetti creativi che si rivolgono a target iper-selezionati, al contrario del vasto pubblico per cui scrivono i magazine mainstream. Durante l'emergenza sanitaria, causata dalla pandemia di Covid-19 che ha costretto a continui lockdown l'intero globo, la società si è trovata catapultata in stili di vita rallentati, in cui è stato possibile approfondire la relazione con oggetti spesso dimenticati per la mancanza di tempo e concentrazione: i magazine e, in particolare, quelli che si occupano del fashion system. Perché? La moda racconta il proprio tempo e la stampa dedicata ha il dovere di comunicarlo al pubblico. In un momento di sostanziali cambiamenti, i contenuti moda nelle riviste italiane hanno dimostrato di potersi rinnovare, restando fedeli al racconto della contemporaneità. Malgrado già agli inizi del 2020 ci fossero stati importanti tentativi mediatici di offrire una narrazione incentrata su temi sociali ("Vogue Italia" gennaio 2020), è a marzo, mese di inizio del confinamento domestico, che la comunicazione di moda nei magazine ha cominciato realmente a reinventarsi, dando vita a un giornalismo svincolato dalla frivolezza a cui spesso sono associate le testate femminili. Le riviste hanno trasmesso, e continuano in questa direzione, ampliando anche un discorso digitale, un senso di comunità tra i propri lettori, attraverso varie iniziative; inoltre si è assistito a una crescente predominanza di contenuti impegnati socialmente e politicamente: un'azione di brand activism che ha coinvolto gran parte del sistema di comunicazione nel 2020. Sostenibilità, diversità e inclusione: l'emergenza climatica e la discriminazione non hanno mai acquisito tanta importanza come durante il Covid-19, tra la tragedia umanitaria, economica e le proteste del Black Lives Matter. Oggi sono emerse difficoltà che hanno bisogno di solidarietà per essere superate. Non solo: siamo più consa- pevoli della caducità del nostro pianeta. Infatti, se il Covid-19 ha mostrato i suoi effetti devastanti velocemente, costringendo i governi a prendere mi- sure estreme nell'immediato, il global warming agisce lento ma inesorabile, a volte silenzioso ma evidente. Il fashion system è uno dei massimi responsabili dell'inquinamento globale: il percorso per migliorarsi è lungo, forse economicamente svantaggioso, ma necessario, ed è il consumatore che lo chiede. I contenuti moda nei giornali stanno, timidamente, cambiando: non è ancora abbastanza ma le fondamenta per creare un racconto di moda più politico e sociale sono state poste. L'artefatto comunicativo che ne segue è un fashion magazine dedicato alla sostenibilità: un archivio-guida che tratta progetti di brand emergenti italiani, e che si focalizza sulla loro azione positiva sia dal punto di vista etico che da quello ecologico.
Tradurre la moda sostenibile. Una proposta editoriale
Tognoni, Giulia
2019/2020
Abstract
We often talk about the publishing crisis in Italy, but what does it mean? The advent of technology in the early 2000s made the book industry tremble, which felt strongly threatened by modernity, which seemed to favour the screen over the paper media. However, digital reading has never definitively prevailed over traditional reading, and it is precisely the hope that the physical object is not destined to disappear that has supported the expansion of the phenomenon of independent and, in particular, periodical publishing. In fact, events dedicated to the sector are on the increase: important cultural poles from which creative projects are born that address hyper-selected targets, unlike the vast audience for which mainstream magazines are written. During the health emergency, caused by the Covid-19 pandemic that forced the entire world to lockdown, society found itself catapulted into slowed-down lifestyles, where it was possible to deepen its relationship with objects often forgotten due to lack of time and concentration: magazines and, in particular, those dealing with the fashion system. Why? Fashion tells the story of its time and the dedicated press has the power to communicate it to the public.At a time of substantial change, the fashion content in Italian magazines has shown that it can be renewed, remaining faithful to the story of the contemporary world. Although at the beginning of 2020 there had already been important media attempts to offer a narrative focused on social issues ("Vogue Italia" January 2020), it was in March, the month of the beginning of domestic confinement, that fashion communication in magazines really began to reinvent itself, giving rise to a journalism free of the frivolity to which women's magazines are often associated. Magazines have conveyed, and continue to do so, also expanding a digital discourse, a sense of community among their readers, through various initiatives; moreover, there has been a growing predominance of socially and politically committed content: a brand activism action that has involved a large part of the communication system in 2020. Sustainability, diversity and inclusion: the climate emergency and discrimination have never acquired as much importance as during Covid-19, between the humanitarian and economic tragedy and the Black Lives Matter protests. Today, difficulties have emerged that need solidarity to be overcome. Not only that: we are more aware of the transience of our planet. In fact, while Covid-19 has shown its devastating effects quickly, forcing governments to take me to extremes in the immediate future, global warming is slow but inexorable, sometimes silent but evident. The fashion system is one of the greatest contributors to global pollution: the path to improvement is long, perhaps economically disadvantageous, but necessary, and it is the consumer who asks for it. The fashion content in the newspapers is slowly changing: it is still not enough, but the foundations to create a more political and social fashion story have been laid. The communicative artifact that follows is a fashion magazine dedicated to sustainability: an archive-guide that deals with projects by emerging Italian brands and focuses on their positive action from both an ethical and ecological point of view.| File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/170743