Considering the impact of covid-19 on companies’ Market-positioning and the increasing relevance of Supply Chain Management (SCM) in the luxury market, limited contributions dealing with the luxury fashion industry have been proposed so far mainly due to the newness of the topic. This research is divided into Study I and Study II. Study I aims at defining for the first time a comprehensive list of fashion-luxury Critical Success Factors (CSFs) identifying industry’ ‘Order Qualifiers’ and ‘Order Winners’; depending on strategic priorities, luxury companies have been grouped in 3 archetypes. Consequently, the purpose of Study II is to investigate Supply Chain (SC) configurations highlighting commonalities and differences across clusters, grasping key resources and activities. The academic literature review led to the development of a preliminary research on CSFs, SC and Marketing variables. Then, the goal has been reached conducting 12 interviews involving luxury-fashion managers operating in Operations and SC fields. For Study I, experts’ interviews allowed researchers to observe which are the CSFs that nowadays are shaping the competition and how and why they changed due to the pandemic. Results showed that 8 ‘Order Qualifier’ and 8 ‘Order Winner’ CSFs exist: the former legitimize belonging to the industry, while the latter declare "who you are". Starting from these attributes, 3 fashion-luxury archetypes emerged: Luxury Top Players are companies that can properly address each CSF leveraging on rooted reputation and size advantages, Fashioury brands target digital customers and are characterized by a fast-fashion approach where a ‘recognizable style’ and ‘creativity’ are imperatives. Ultimately, Luxury Purists leverage on renowned heritage and on traditional luxury features but they have not yet fully evolved in a top player. Furthermore, in Study II aims to investigate how different archetypes, which prioritize different CSFs, manage their Supply Chain. Starting from the similarities and differences occurred, it has been possible to identify which activities and resources are considered as strategic go-to-market decisions to compete in the fashion-luxury industry. Three SC Models, mirroring each archetype, emerged: Top Players adopt a tight control over the whole SC leveraging on suppliers’ growth and a selective distribution; contrary, Purists engage with physical and digital wholesalers to expand their revenue streams. Fashioury brands partially delocalize their production and leverages on a broader pool of both suppliers and retail channels.
Considerando l'impatto del covid-19 sulle strategie di posizionamento di mercato e la crescente rilevanza del ‘Supply Chain Management’ (SCM) nel mondo del lusso, finora sono stati proposti limitati contributi relativi a queste tematiche. Questa ricerca è composta da Studio I e Studio II. Lo Studio I mira a definire per la prima volta un elenco completo di fashion-luxury fattori critici di successo (CSFs) dividendoli in "Order Qualifiers" e "Order Winners"; a seconda delle priorità strategiche, i player sono stati raggruppati in tre archetipi. Successivamente, lo Studio II indaga le configurazioni di Supply Chian (SC), cercando i punti in comune e le differenze tra i cluster, identificando le risorse e le attività chiave. La revisione della letteratura accademica ha portato allo sviluppo di una ricerca preliminare sui CSFs e sulle variabili di SC e Marketing. Operativamente, l'obiettivo è stato raggiunto conducendo 12 interviste che hanno coinvolto fashion-luxury managers che operano prevalentemente nelle funzioni ‘Operations’ e ‘Supply Chain Management’. Per lo Studio I, le interviste hanno permesso di osservare quali sono i CSFs che oggi caratterizzano le aziende fashion-luxury e gli effetti che la pandemia ha causato su di essi. I risultati hanno mostrato che esistono 8 'Order Qualifier' e 8 'Order Winner' CSFs: i primi legittimano l'appartenenza al settore, mentre i secondi dichiarano la propria, ed unica, identità. Partendo da questi attributi sono emersi tre archetipi: i Luxury Top Players sono aziende che possono inseguire adeguatamente ogni CSF facendo leva su radicata reputazione e vantaggi dimensionali. I Fashioury brands invece, si rivolgono a clienti digitali e sono caratterizzati da un approccio fast-fashion dove uno stile riconoscibile e la creatività sono essenziali. In definitiva, i Purists del lusso sfruttano il rinomato patrimonio storico e le tradizionali caratteristiche del lusso, ma non si sono ancora completamente evoluti in un top player. Nello Studio II, invece, si mira a indagare come i diversi clusters, caratterizzati da diversi CSFs, gestiscono la loro catena logistica. Partendo dalle somiglianze e dalle differenze apprese, è stato possibile identificare quali attività e risorse sono considerate strategiche per competere nel settore del fashion-luxury. Sono stati identificati 3 modelli SC rispetto a ciascun archetipo: I Top Player adottano uno stretto controllo su tutta la SC facendo leva sulla crescita dei fornitori e su una distribuzione selettiva; al contrario, i Purists interagiscono con grossisti fisici e digitali per espandere i loro flussi di entrate. I Fashioury delocalizzano parzialmente la loro produzione e si affidano a un pool più ampio di fornitori e di canali di vendita al dettaglio.
Fashion-luxury critical success factors in a post pandemic environment : a qualitative research on market-positioning and supply chain configurations
Casati, Simone;Di Nicola, Beatrice
2020/2021
Abstract
Considering the impact of covid-19 on companies’ Market-positioning and the increasing relevance of Supply Chain Management (SCM) in the luxury market, limited contributions dealing with the luxury fashion industry have been proposed so far mainly due to the newness of the topic. This research is divided into Study I and Study II. Study I aims at defining for the first time a comprehensive list of fashion-luxury Critical Success Factors (CSFs) identifying industry’ ‘Order Qualifiers’ and ‘Order Winners’; depending on strategic priorities, luxury companies have been grouped in 3 archetypes. Consequently, the purpose of Study II is to investigate Supply Chain (SC) configurations highlighting commonalities and differences across clusters, grasping key resources and activities. The academic literature review led to the development of a preliminary research on CSFs, SC and Marketing variables. Then, the goal has been reached conducting 12 interviews involving luxury-fashion managers operating in Operations and SC fields. For Study I, experts’ interviews allowed researchers to observe which are the CSFs that nowadays are shaping the competition and how and why they changed due to the pandemic. Results showed that 8 ‘Order Qualifier’ and 8 ‘Order Winner’ CSFs exist: the former legitimize belonging to the industry, while the latter declare "who you are". Starting from these attributes, 3 fashion-luxury archetypes emerged: Luxury Top Players are companies that can properly address each CSF leveraging on rooted reputation and size advantages, Fashioury brands target digital customers and are characterized by a fast-fashion approach where a ‘recognizable style’ and ‘creativity’ are imperatives. Ultimately, Luxury Purists leverage on renowned heritage and on traditional luxury features but they have not yet fully evolved in a top player. Furthermore, in Study II aims to investigate how different archetypes, which prioritize different CSFs, manage their Supply Chain. Starting from the similarities and differences occurred, it has been possible to identify which activities and resources are considered as strategic go-to-market decisions to compete in the fashion-luxury industry. Three SC Models, mirroring each archetype, emerged: Top Players adopt a tight control over the whole SC leveraging on suppliers’ growth and a selective distribution; contrary, Purists engage with physical and digital wholesalers to expand their revenue streams. Fashioury brands partially delocalize their production and leverages on a broader pool of both suppliers and retail channels.| File | Dimensione | Formato | |
|---|---|---|---|
|
2021_12_Casati_DiNicola.pdf
non accessibile
Descrizione: Full Master Thesis - with Executive Summary
Dimensione
4.86 MB
Formato
Adobe PDF
|
4.86 MB | Adobe PDF | Visualizza/Apri |
I documenti in POLITesi sono protetti da copyright e tutti i diritti sono riservati, salvo diversa indicazione.
https://hdl.handle.net/10589/183290