Fashion is a transformative force that molds our world by acting on a blurred boundary between art and cultural heritage. Besides its transformative power, fashion industry is a complex system that in recent years has been dominated by the fast fashion model. The acceleration of purchasing coupled with the devaluation of products have caused the overall production to dramatically grow, worsening the already harsh value chain unbalances and environmental impacts of fashion. 2020 will be remembered as a year of major changes for both people and businesses. Fashion industry resulted as one of the most affected sectors due to a combination of severe supply and demand shocks. Besides, the pandemic awakened social consciousness that is putting pressure upon fashion companies to pursue a transition towards new sustainable business models. This implies rethinking companies priorities by balancing economic, environmental, social and cultural goals. Though, we need guidance in this uncertain moment so that this opportunity of change is not wasted. In our research we try to anticipate the evolution of fashion until 2030, not with the aim of forecasting but to propose a transition pathway towards a preferred future. We applied future studies methodologies to develop three alternative scenarios, each devised from different attitude emerging in the post pandemic landscape: isolation, responsibility and criticism. Digital Immersion is a scenario that relocates fashion in a fully virtual reality avoiding almost all physical production. Endless Caring enables different levels of circularity, extending product life and eliminating waste generation. Fashion Activism redefine value chain in a regional scale allowing brands to represent people culture and labor. Scenarios potential impacts have been assessed consistently with the Sustainable Development Goals and we identified our preferred future in the Endless Caring scenario because of both the positive outcomes and the complexity of a transition from the current reality. The transition pathway articulates in three distinctive phases. Education, which is crucial to stimulate the dialogue and create a shared vision as well as the right attitude. Acceptance involves the application of the most immediate solutions and prepare the ground for more radical innovations. Finally, in the Conversion phase the value chain undergoes even the most radical transformations and reach the full potential envisioned.
La moda è una forza trasformatrice che plasma il nostro mondo agendo su un confine labile tra arte e cultura. Oltre al suo potere trasformativo, l'industria della moda è un sistema complesso che negli ultimi anni è stato dominato dal modello fast fashion. L'accelerazione degli acquisti unita alla svalutazione dei prodotti hanno fatto crescere drammaticamente la produzione complessiva, accentuando i già gravi squilibri della value chain e gli impatti ambientali della moda. Il 2020 sarà ricordato come un anno di grandi cambiamenti sia per le persone che per le imprese. L'industria della moda è stata uno dei settori più colpiti a causa di una combinazione di gravi shock di domanda e offerta. Inoltre, la pandemia ha risvegliato la coscienza sociale, che pone pressione sulle aziende di moda per perseguire una transizione verso nuovi modelli di business sostenibili. Questo implica un ripensamento delle priorità aziendali, bilanciando obiettivi economici, ambientali, sociali e culturali. Tuttavia, abbiamo bisogno di una guida in questo momento incerto in modo che questa opportunità di cambiamento non venga sprecata. Nella nostra ricerca cerchiamo di anticipare l'evoluzione della moda fino al 2030, non con lo scopo di fare previsioni ma di proporre un percorso di transizione verso un futuro preferibile. Abbiamo applicato le metodologie di future studies per sviluppare tre scenari alternativi, ognuno concepito a partire da un diverso atteggiamento che emerge nel panorama post pandemico: isolamento, responsabilità e critica. Digital Immersion è uno scenario che trasferisce la moda in una realtà completamente virtuale evitando quasi tutta la produzione fisica. Endless Caring attiva diversi livelli di circolarità, estendendo la vita del prodotto ed eliminando la generazione di rifiuti. Fashion Activism ridefinisce la value chain su scala regionale permettendo ai brand di rappresentare la cultura e il lavoro delle persone. Gli impatti potenziali degli scenari sono stati valutati coerentemente con i Sustainable Development Goals e abbiamo identificato il nostro futuro preferibile nello scenario Endless Caring sia per i risultati positivi sia per la complessità di una transizione dallo stato attuale. Il percorso di transizione si articola in tre fasi distinte. Educazione, che è cruciale per stimolare il dialogo e creare una visione condivisa così come il giusto atteggiamento. Accettazione comporta l'applicazione delle soluzioni più immediate e prepara il terreno per innovazioni più radicali. Infine, nella fase di Conversione la value chain subisce le trasformazioni più radicali e raggiungere il pieno potenziale previsto.
Endless caring. A new paradigm of sustainable fashion
Caprotti, Marco Maria;Capitanio, Matteo Luigi
2020/2021
Abstract
Fashion is a transformative force that molds our world by acting on a blurred boundary between art and cultural heritage. Besides its transformative power, fashion industry is a complex system that in recent years has been dominated by the fast fashion model. The acceleration of purchasing coupled with the devaluation of products have caused the overall production to dramatically grow, worsening the already harsh value chain unbalances and environmental impacts of fashion. 2020 will be remembered as a year of major changes for both people and businesses. Fashion industry resulted as one of the most affected sectors due to a combination of severe supply and demand shocks. Besides, the pandemic awakened social consciousness that is putting pressure upon fashion companies to pursue a transition towards new sustainable business models. This implies rethinking companies priorities by balancing economic, environmental, social and cultural goals. Though, we need guidance in this uncertain moment so that this opportunity of change is not wasted. In our research we try to anticipate the evolution of fashion until 2030, not with the aim of forecasting but to propose a transition pathway towards a preferred future. We applied future studies methodologies to develop three alternative scenarios, each devised from different attitude emerging in the post pandemic landscape: isolation, responsibility and criticism. Digital Immersion is a scenario that relocates fashion in a fully virtual reality avoiding almost all physical production. Endless Caring enables different levels of circularity, extending product life and eliminating waste generation. Fashion Activism redefine value chain in a regional scale allowing brands to represent people culture and labor. Scenarios potential impacts have been assessed consistently with the Sustainable Development Goals and we identified our preferred future in the Endless Caring scenario because of both the positive outcomes and the complexity of a transition from the current reality. The transition pathway articulates in three distinctive phases. Education, which is crucial to stimulate the dialogue and create a shared vision as well as the right attitude. Acceptance involves the application of the most immediate solutions and prepare the ground for more radical innovations. Finally, in the Conversion phase the value chain undergoes even the most radical transformations and reach the full potential envisioned.| File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/183784