Today the fashion system is a very complex world characterized by a maze of figures, visions, cultures, and trends in sudden and continuous change. Through history you can understand how the interaction between discoveries and new conceptions have arrived at today’s fashion system with their own changes and evolutions of processes that have made it possible to innovate the entire system and to have an eye for the problems that have become rooted and infiltrated into our daily life with the advancement of history and innovation itself. The race for sustainability, which has made its voice heard since the 1960s, has shaped the way of life of the population and the new generations by resorting to changes and design approaches that could enable them to embrace the interests and desires of new consum-authors and that could reduce the impact and damage that every year the Fashion Industry has in the world (about 10% of the entire global pollution) thanks to the redesign of fashion and its processes. The following thesis project is born from the union of these new sustainable visions, from the experimental approaches of zero waste fashion and from the experience carried out by the candidate at a local textile SME, the company Colombo Industrie Tessili srl in Fino Mornasco (CO) that allowed her to experiment and get in touch with the industrial reality of textile production, deeply involving her in the theme of sustainability and circularity in the fashion system and in particular in the textile industry. The experience has directed the project towards a new concept of waste considering the importance and qualitative uniqueness of the material and the processes connected to it of the company reality. Thanks to the project of the Gruppo Filiera Tessile of Confindustria Como, in synergy with the Centro Tessile Serico Sostenibile (CTSS) Hub scarti Tessili, an online platform for participating companies to quantify production waste in terms of textiles and yarn, in which the candidate participated, it was possible to recognize the actual amount of internal waste within the company for the different categories of fabrics and fibres. The result was an alternative experiment that could redesign the basic textile production process by integrating yarn scraps in the same process, recovering material that is still of enormous quality value, in a perspective of circular without waste and safeguarding the “finished” resources of our planet with an ethical capsule of jacquard barrè fabrics designed ad hoc with defined quantities of wasted yarn recovered from the seasonal company production in which the material and “the error” created by the alternation of different factors (colour, title, yarn structure) enhances the quality and aesthetics of the fabric itself to maximize the potential of waste minimizing its production with the creation of clothing with zero waste approach.
Il sistema moda oggi è un mondo molto complesso caratterizzato da un dedalo di figure, visioni, culture e tendenze in repentino e continuo cambiamento. Attraverso la storia è possibile comprendere come l’interazione tra scoperte e nuove concezioni si è approdati al sistema moda odierno con i propri cambiamenti ed evoluzioni di processi che hanno permesso di innovare l’intero sistema e di avere un occhio di riguardo per i problemi che si sono radicati ed infiltrati nella nostra quotidianità con l’avanzare della storia e dell’innovazione stessa. La corsa al sostenibile, che dagli anni ’60 fa sentire la propria voce, ha plasmato il modo di vivere della popolazione e delle nuove generazioni ricorrendo a cambiamenti e ad approcci di design che permettessero di abbracciare gli interessi e desideri dei nuovi consum-attori e che permettessero di diminuire l’impatto e i danni che ogni anno la Fashion Industry ha nel mondo (circa il 10% dell’intero inquinamento globale) grazie alla riprogettazione della moda e i propri processi. Il progetto di tesi seguente nasce dall’unione di queste nuove visioni sostenibili, dagli approcci sperimentali della moda zero waste e dall’esperienza svolta dalla candidata presso una PMI tessile locale, l’azienda Colombo Industrie Tessili srl di Fino Mornasco (CO) che le ha permesso di sperimentare ed entrare in contatto con la realtà industriale di produzione tessile coinvolgendola in profondo nel tema della sostenibilità e circolarità nel sistema moda ed in particolare dell’industria tessile. L’esperienza ha indirizzato il progetto verso una nuova concezione di scarto tenendo in considerazione l’importanza e unicità qualitativa della materia e dei processi a essa collegati della realtà aziendale. Grazie al progetto del Gruppo Filiera Tessile di Confindustria Como, in sinergia con il Centro Tessile Serico Sostenibile (CTSS) Hub scarti Tessili, una piattaforma online per le aziende aderenti per la quantificazione degli scarti di produzione in termini di tessile e filato, al quale la candidata ha partecipato, è stato possibile riconoscere la quantità effettiva di scarto interno aziendale per le differenti categorie di tessuti e fibre. Il risultato che ne è derivato è stato una sperimentazione alternativa che potesse riprogettare il processo produttivo base del tessile integrando nello stesso processo gli scarti di filato recuperando materia ancora di enorme valore qualitativo, in un’ottica di circolarità senza spreco e di salvaguardia delle risorse “finite” del nostro pianeta con una capsule etica di tessuti barrè jacquard progettati ad hoc con quantitativi definiti di filati di scarto recuperato di produzione stagionale aziendale nella quale la materia e “l’errore” creato dall’alternanza di diversi fattori (colore, titolo, struttura del filato) esalta la qualità e l’estetica del tessuto stesso per massimizzare le potenzialità dello spreco minimizzandone la sua produzione con la realizzazione di capi di abbigliamento con approccio zero waste.
ERA Studio. A new concept of waste
Frigerio, Linda
2020/2021
Abstract
Today the fashion system is a very complex world characterized by a maze of figures, visions, cultures, and trends in sudden and continuous change. Through history you can understand how the interaction between discoveries and new conceptions have arrived at today’s fashion system with their own changes and evolutions of processes that have made it possible to innovate the entire system and to have an eye for the problems that have become rooted and infiltrated into our daily life with the advancement of history and innovation itself. The race for sustainability, which has made its voice heard since the 1960s, has shaped the way of life of the population and the new generations by resorting to changes and design approaches that could enable them to embrace the interests and desires of new consum-authors and that could reduce the impact and damage that every year the Fashion Industry has in the world (about 10% of the entire global pollution) thanks to the redesign of fashion and its processes. The following thesis project is born from the union of these new sustainable visions, from the experimental approaches of zero waste fashion and from the experience carried out by the candidate at a local textile SME, the company Colombo Industrie Tessili srl in Fino Mornasco (CO) that allowed her to experiment and get in touch with the industrial reality of textile production, deeply involving her in the theme of sustainability and circularity in the fashion system and in particular in the textile industry. The experience has directed the project towards a new concept of waste considering the importance and qualitative uniqueness of the material and the processes connected to it of the company reality. Thanks to the project of the Gruppo Filiera Tessile of Confindustria Como, in synergy with the Centro Tessile Serico Sostenibile (CTSS) Hub scarti Tessili, an online platform for participating companies to quantify production waste in terms of textiles and yarn, in which the candidate participated, it was possible to recognize the actual amount of internal waste within the company for the different categories of fabrics and fibres. The result was an alternative experiment that could redesign the basic textile production process by integrating yarn scraps in the same process, recovering material that is still of enormous quality value, in a perspective of circular without waste and safeguarding the “finished” resources of our planet with an ethical capsule of jacquard barrè fabrics designed ad hoc with defined quantities of wasted yarn recovered from the seasonal company production in which the material and “the error” created by the alternation of different factors (colour, title, yarn structure) enhances the quality and aesthetics of the fabric itself to maximize the potential of waste minimizing its production with the creation of clothing with zero waste approach.File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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ELABORATO DI TESI _ LINDA FRIGERIO 942573_ERA - A NEW CONCEPT OF WASTE.pdf
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Descrizione: Tesi magistrale in Design for the Fashion System - ERA- A New Concept of Waste.
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/185833