The purpose of the following thesis is to focus attention on the issue of flight attendants' uniforms, which nowadays are still linked to an idea of anachronistic uniform, to develop, after careful consideration of the needs of hostesses, guidelines that promote an idea of "hostess oriented" uniform. From the historical analysis, it was possible to know the origins of the uniform, whose protagonists were mainly men, from which the female uniforms have arisen, always a declination of the male ones. It was necessary to understand, for the purpose of writing this thesis, what were the influences on the stylistic and cultural level, such as the military, religious and scholastic world, deepening the representation of hierarchies, status and gender in the uniform. Even fashion, through its creations and interpretations of society, has based entire collections on the concept of uniform, more or less explicitly, continuing to use these elements freely, confirming, subverting, and revolutionizing the idea of uniform. In this thesis, the uniform has been considered as a communicative prosthesis, which through its materiality that is expressed through fabrics and shapes, manages to convey messages that are always different according to the individual who wears it. In the aforementioned field of communication, it has been seen as contrary to the official uniforms that to date do not contemplate stylistic differences based on sex, the case of flight attendants is still open; their uniforms still convey sexualizing messages because of their uniforms linked to an ideal of a "fifties" woman, far from the issues to which they are currently trying to raise awareness, such as gender inclusivity. There was a historical excursus that traces the history of the uniforms of flight attendants from their origins to the present day, bringing out the topics covered by today's airlines, and then moving on to the data collected from the interviews I conducted with three flight attendants, in order to identify the elements of the current uniform of the hostesses, and their respective criticalities. Through the collection of these data, the reference target who usually travels by plane was also identified, which was seen to be well represented by Gen Z, which in the near future, constitutes a potential typical user, able to grasp innovations and feel represented by novelties.Subsequently, the case of the streetwear brand Slam Jam was used with the "(Un)Corporate Uniform" collection, to expand the research as compared to contemporary conception of the uniform, and use it as a starting point to then deconstruct the concept of unisex, now obsolete, in favor of a genderless style. The final output, which is configured in guidelines, is the result of the awareness acquired thanks to the various case studies covered in the chapters, and the re-elaboration of the needs of the flight attendants interviewed, transforming them into design responses, also developed as an example, for a hypothetical launch of new uniforms for Neos Air.
Lo scopo del seguente elaborato è quello di focalizzare l’attenzione sul tema delle divise delle assistenti di volo, che al giorno d’oggi risultano essere ancora legate ad un’idea di uniforme anacronistica, per sviluppare, dopo un’attenta considerazione dei bisogni delle hostess, delle linee guida che promuovono un’idea di divisa “hostess oriented”. Dall’analisi storica, è stato possibile conoscere le origini dell’uniforme, i cui protagonisti sono stati principalmente uomini, dai quali sono scaturite le divise femminili, da sempre una declinazione di quelle maschili. È stato necessario comprendere, ai fini della stesura di questa tesi, quali sono state le influenze sul piano stilistico e culturale, quali il mondo militare, religioso e scolastico, approfondendo la rappresentazione delle gerarchie, status e genere nella divisa. Anche la moda, attraverso le sue creazioni ed interpretazioni della società, ha basato intere collezioni sul concetto di divisa, in maniera più o meno esplicita, continuando ad utilizzare questi elementi in maniera libera, confermando, sovvertendo, e rivoluzionando l’idea di uniforme. In questa tesi, la divisa è stata considerata come una protesi comunicativa, che attraverso la sua materialità che si esprime attraverso tessuti e forme, riesce a veicolare messaggi sempre diversi in base all’individuo che la indossa. Nel richiamato ambito comunicativo, si è visto come al contrario delle uniformi ufficiali che ad oggi non contemplano differenze stilistiche in base al sesso, il caso delle assistenti di volo, è ancora aperto; le loro uniformi veicolano ancora messaggi sessualizzanti a causa delle loro divise legate ad un ideale di donna “anni Cinquanta”, ben lontano dai temi a cui attualmente si cerca di sensibilizzare, come l’inclusività di genere. Si è svolto un excursus storico che ripercorre la storia delle divise delle assistenti di volo dalle loro origini fino ai giorni nostri, facendo emergere i temi trattati dalle compagnie aeree di oggi, per poi passare ai dati raccolti dalle interviste che ho condotto a tre assistenti di volo, al fine di individuare gli elementi della divisa attuale delle hostess, e le rispettive criticità. Attraverso la raccolta di questi dati è stato inoltre identificato il target di riferimento che viaggia abitualmente in aereo, che si è visto essere ben rappresentato dalla Gen Z, che nel futuro prossimo, costituisce un potenziale fruitore tipo, capace di cogliere le innovazioni e sentirsi rappresentato dalle novità. Partendo quindi da un’attenta analisi dei punti individuati, è stata presa in considerazione la compagnia aerea italiana low cost Neos, che già punta ad attirare l’attenzione dei giovani clienti. Successivamente è stato utilizzato il caso del brand streetwear Slam Jam con la collezione “(Un)Corporate Uniform”, per ampliare la ricerca rispetto ad una concezione contemporanea della divisa, ed utilizzarla come punto di partenza per destrutturare poi il concetto di unisex, ormai obsoleto, a favore di uno stile genderless. L’output finale, che si configura in linee guida, è il frutto delle consapevolezze acquisite grazie ai vari casi studio trattati nei capitoli, e la rielaborazione delle esigenze delle assistenti di volo intervistate, trasformandole in risposte di design, sviluppate inoltre come esempio, per un ipotetico lancio di nuove divise per Neos Air.
How to (un)build a uniform : dall'indagine storica e socio-culturale dell'uniforme alla guida di un design consapevole per le assistenti di volo
De LUCIA, LAURA
2021/2022
Abstract
The purpose of the following thesis is to focus attention on the issue of flight attendants' uniforms, which nowadays are still linked to an idea of anachronistic uniform, to develop, after careful consideration of the needs of hostesses, guidelines that promote an idea of "hostess oriented" uniform. From the historical analysis, it was possible to know the origins of the uniform, whose protagonists were mainly men, from which the female uniforms have arisen, always a declination of the male ones. It was necessary to understand, for the purpose of writing this thesis, what were the influences on the stylistic and cultural level, such as the military, religious and scholastic world, deepening the representation of hierarchies, status and gender in the uniform. Even fashion, through its creations and interpretations of society, has based entire collections on the concept of uniform, more or less explicitly, continuing to use these elements freely, confirming, subverting, and revolutionizing the idea of uniform. In this thesis, the uniform has been considered as a communicative prosthesis, which through its materiality that is expressed through fabrics and shapes, manages to convey messages that are always different according to the individual who wears it. In the aforementioned field of communication, it has been seen as contrary to the official uniforms that to date do not contemplate stylistic differences based on sex, the case of flight attendants is still open; their uniforms still convey sexualizing messages because of their uniforms linked to an ideal of a "fifties" woman, far from the issues to which they are currently trying to raise awareness, such as gender inclusivity. There was a historical excursus that traces the history of the uniforms of flight attendants from their origins to the present day, bringing out the topics covered by today's airlines, and then moving on to the data collected from the interviews I conducted with three flight attendants, in order to identify the elements of the current uniform of the hostesses, and their respective criticalities. Through the collection of these data, the reference target who usually travels by plane was also identified, which was seen to be well represented by Gen Z, which in the near future, constitutes a potential typical user, able to grasp innovations and feel represented by novelties.Subsequently, the case of the streetwear brand Slam Jam was used with the "(Un)Corporate Uniform" collection, to expand the research as compared to contemporary conception of the uniform, and use it as a starting point to then deconstruct the concept of unisex, now obsolete, in favor of a genderless style. The final output, which is configured in guidelines, is the result of the awareness acquired thanks to the various case studies covered in the chapters, and the re-elaboration of the needs of the flight attendants interviewed, transforming them into design responses, also developed as an example, for a hypothetical launch of new uniforms for Neos Air.File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/203602