Talking about fashion means to retrace history through individual expression, but the narrower meaning associated with this word has been, for centuries, the overcoming of something old with something new that better narrates the Zeitgeist. It is by following the Zeitgeist that fashion, in today's uncertain future and precarious environment, changes its form, leaving in the past its dynamic and impulsive opulence. Thus, mankind is - perhaps - ready to embrace the definition which, in contrast to all modern authors, the architect Adolf Loos gave about fashion in its purest expression, which he described as changeless: durable. Durability is one of the fundamental principles on which the circular economic model is built. This thesis work is based on the central role that design plays in disseminating and adopting this system. This research culminates in the Circular MAT, a practical tool focused on the material exploration, to help the designer in directing fashion projects - which rarely involve the environmental aspect - toward the circular and sustainable model. The tool includes traditional, preferred, and neo-materials, filed according to relevant characteristics of circular economy principles, and overlaps them with circularity-compatible strategies. The tool is designed to integrate with the designer's habits, generating reflections to support conscious design decisions without undermining creativity. As a starting point, an overview of the materials used in the sector was carried out, from the most traditional to the most innovative, considering various aspects: their intrinsic properties (and how these change from fibers to yarns to fabrics), their current and future diffusion and their environmental footprint. Then, the idea of sustainability in the fashion industry is explored, outlining the path indicated by governments to achieve a new circular fashion economy. The effort focuses on identifying and elaborating the methods available to the designer to actively participate in the change. With Circular MAT which is the result of this complex journey, the author hopes to contribute to the dissemination of the critical thinking necessary to lay the foundation for change in the fashion industry.
Parlare di moda significa ripercorrere la storia attraverso l'espressione individuale, ma il significato più stretto associato a questa parola è stato, per secoli, il superamento di qualcosa di vecchio con qualcosa di nuovo che meglio racconti lo Zeitgeist. È proprio seguendo lo Spirito del tempo che la moda, nell'odierno contesto caratterizzato dall'incertezza del futuro e dalla precarietà ambientale, muta la sua forma, lasciando la sua dinamica ed impulsiva opulenza al mondo passato. L'umanità è quindi - forse - pronta ad accogliere quella definizione che, in controtendenza a tutti gli autori moderni, dava l'architetto Adolf Loos della moda nella sua espressione più pura, che descriveva come scevra di cambiamenti: durevole. La durabilità è infatti uno dei principi fondamentali sui cui si basa il modello economico circolare. Questo lavoro di tesi si fonda sul ruolo centrale che il design occupa nella diffusione ed adozione di questo sistema. La presente ricerca culmina nel Circular MAT, uno strumento pratico focalizzato sull'esplorazione dei materiali, in grado di agevolare il designer a direzionare i progetti della moda - che raramente coinvolgono l'aspetto ambientale - verso il modello circolare e sostenibile. Il tool comprende materiali tradizionali, materiali preferiti e neo-materiali, schedati secondo le caratteristiche rilevanti per i principi di economia circolare, e li sovrappone alle strategie di progettazione in ottica di circolarità compatibili. Tale strumento è pensato per integrarsi alle consuetudini progettuali del designer, generando riflessioni a supporto di una progettazione consapevole, senza minarne la creatività. Come punto di partenza è stata svolta una panoramica dei materiali impiegati nel settore, dai più tradizionali ai più innovativi, considerando diversi aspetti: le loro proprietà intrinseche (e come queste cambiano passando da fibre a filati a tessuti), la loro attuale e futura diffusione e la loro impronta ambientale. Viene poi approfondito il concetto di sostenibilità nel settore della moda, delineando la strada indicata dagli enti governativi per raggiungere una nuova economia circolare della moda. Lo sforzo si concentra dunque nell’individuare ed elaborare i metodi che il designer ha a disposizione per partecipare attivamente al cambiamento. Con Circular MAT, risultato di questo complesso percorso, l’autore auspica a contribuire alla diffusione del pensiero critico necessario a porre le basi per il cambiamento del settore.
circular mat (materials advisor tool). sviluppo di uno strumento a supporto del pensiero critico nella selezione materica per la transizione circolare della moda.
Mazzitelli, Melissa
2021/2022
Abstract
Talking about fashion means to retrace history through individual expression, but the narrower meaning associated with this word has been, for centuries, the overcoming of something old with something new that better narrates the Zeitgeist. It is by following the Zeitgeist that fashion, in today's uncertain future and precarious environment, changes its form, leaving in the past its dynamic and impulsive opulence. Thus, mankind is - perhaps - ready to embrace the definition which, in contrast to all modern authors, the architect Adolf Loos gave about fashion in its purest expression, which he described as changeless: durable. Durability is one of the fundamental principles on which the circular economic model is built. This thesis work is based on the central role that design plays in disseminating and adopting this system. This research culminates in the Circular MAT, a practical tool focused on the material exploration, to help the designer in directing fashion projects - which rarely involve the environmental aspect - toward the circular and sustainable model. The tool includes traditional, preferred, and neo-materials, filed according to relevant characteristics of circular economy principles, and overlaps them with circularity-compatible strategies. The tool is designed to integrate with the designer's habits, generating reflections to support conscious design decisions without undermining creativity. As a starting point, an overview of the materials used in the sector was carried out, from the most traditional to the most innovative, considering various aspects: their intrinsic properties (and how these change from fibers to yarns to fabrics), their current and future diffusion and their environmental footprint. Then, the idea of sustainability in the fashion industry is explored, outlining the path indicated by governments to achieve a new circular fashion economy. The effort focuses on identifying and elaborating the methods available to the designer to actively participate in the change. With Circular MAT which is the result of this complex journey, the author hopes to contribute to the dissemination of the critical thinking necessary to lay the foundation for change in the fashion industry.File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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2022_05_Mazzitelli.pdf
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Descrizione: Testo della tesi
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/206578