The aim of the research was to look at a contemporary fashion trend - the Avant Apocalypse - to understand its nature, developments, evolutions, and to hypothesise its museum setting. Firstly, the trend was analysed from a socio-anthropological point of view: an attempt was made to understand the factors that led to the birth of the trend by referring to the readings of society according to the interpretations of Zygmunt Bauman and Vanni Codeluppi. Subsequently, the trend was analysed in correlation with the human body: through a historical excursus between trends and fashions from the early 20th century to the present day, it is examined in depth how the style in question was also theorised from the point of view of forms, probing influences and inspirations. Next, there is the chapter dedicated to the object of research, in which the Avant Apocalypse is introduced and how it is permeated in society is investigated. Here, the most influential exponents of the trend are introduced: an inevitable selection has narrowed the focus to five designers with distinctive characteristics and concerns the Berlin-based duo Ottolinger, New York-based Weiran, Oriens founder Shirley Tang, Sini Saavala and Chelsea Kaya, promising fashion students. At this point, a brief but necessary digression was made on the concept of iconicity in fashion and it was compared to the world of industrial design, coming to understand how it is now outdated: we have in fact entered an era in which icons are ephemeral and, above all, are found more in experiential and sensorial situations, no longer in material objects.Finally, it was analysed how fashion was celebrated in museum contexts, examining displays and installations related to the world of fashion, but also to art and technology, in order to understand how to effectively design an exhibition dedicated to the trend. This leads to the final part of the research, in which the design of a temporary exhibition dedicated to the Avant Apocalypse called "Hyper Void" is proposed, the aim of which is to provide an interdisciplinary look at the theme with the support of multimedia devices and props. The design of the exhibition focused above all on the attempt to achieve a strong sensorial rendering of the environment and the spatial translation of the inspirations that influenced the trend; thus, great attention was paid to the finishes, choice of materials and sensory perceptions. In the first instance, a careful selection was made regarding the choice of site: the decision to set up the exhibition in Spazio Maiocchi reflects an analysis of the Milanese social context. It is in fact an extremely dynamic space, the protagonist of numerous events related to the world of design and fashion, and the catalyst of an underground social substratum that is increasingly in turmoil. Moreover, the ex-industrial aesthetics of the space accurately match the project theme. Subsequently, the space was studied in order to allow an ideal exhibition fruition, which would promote both an informative and sensorial experience, with all the relevant analyses attached, arriving at a design concept that could be proposed in an executive perspective.
L'obiettivo della ricerca è quello di porre lo sguardo su una tendenza della moda contemporanea - l'Avant Apocalypse - capirne la natura, gli sviluppi, le evoluzioni, e ipotizzarne un allestimento museale. in primo luogo il trend è stato analizzato dal punto di vista socio-antropologico: si è cercato di comprendere quali siano stati i fattori che hanno portato alla nascita del trend rifacendosi alle letture della società secondo le interpretazioni di Zygmunt Bauman e Vanni Codeluppi. Successivamente il trend è stato analizzato in correlazione al corpo umano: attraverso un excursus storico tra le tendenze e le mode dal primo Novecento ad oggi viene approfondito come si sia arrivati a teorizzare lo stile in oggetto anche sotto il punto di vista delle forme, scandagliando influenze ed ispirazioni. In seguito, vi è il capitolo dedicato all'oggetto della ricerca, in cui si introduce l'Avant Apocalypse e si indaga come sia permeato nella società. Qui sono stati introdotti gli esponenti più influenti del trend: un’inevitabile selezione ha ristretto il focus su cinque designer dalle caratteristiche peculiari e riguarda il duo berlinese della casa Ottolinger, la newyorkese Weiran, la fondatrice di Oriens Shirley Tang, Sini Saavala e Chelsea Kaya, promettenti studentesse di moda. A questo punto è stata inserita una breve ma necessaria digressione sul concetto di iconicità nella moda ed è stato comparato al mondo del design industriale, arrivando a comprendere come sia ormai sorpassato: siamo di fatto entrati in un'era in cui le icone sono effimere e soprattutto si ritrovano più in situazioni esperienziali e sensoriali, non più in oggetti materiali. Infine, è stato analizzato come sia stata celebrata la moda nei contesti museali, esaminando allestimenti e installazioni legati al mondo del fashion, ma anche all'arte e alle tecnologie, per capire come progettare in modo efficace una mostra dedicata al trend. Si giunge così alla parte conclusiva della ricerca in cui si propone l'allestimento di una mostra temporanea dedicata all'Avant Apocalypse denominata "Hyper Void", il cui obbiettivo è fornire uno sguardo interdisciplinare sul tema con il supporto di dispositivi multimediali e oggetti di scena. La progettazione dell'allestimento si è focalizzata soprattutto sul tentativo di ottenere una spiccata resa sensoriale dell'ambiente e sulla traduzione spaziale delle ispirazioni che hanno influenzato la tendenza; quindi, una grande attenzione è stata posta alle finiture, alla scelta dei materiali e alle percezioni sensoriali. È stata fatta, in prima istanza, un’attenta selezione per quanto riguarda la scelta del sito: la decisione di allestire la mostra in Spazio Maiocchi riflette un’analisi del contesto sociale milanese. Si tratta infatti di uno spazio estremamente dinamico, protagonista di numerosi eventi legati al mondo del design e della moda e catalizzatore di un substrato sociale underground sempre più in fermento. Inoltre, l’estetica ex-industriale dello spazio si sposa accuratamente con il tema di progetto. Successivamente è stato studiato lo spazio per permettere una fruizione della mostra ideale, che promuovesse un’esperienza sia divulgativa, sia sensoriale, con tutte le analisi del caso annesse, arrivando a presentare un concept progettuale che potrebbe essere proposto in un’ottica esecutiva.
Avant Apocalypse : analisi del trend e progetto di allestimento di una mostra sul tema
Di Giamberardino, Isabella
2022/2023
Abstract
The aim of the research was to look at a contemporary fashion trend - the Avant Apocalypse - to understand its nature, developments, evolutions, and to hypothesise its museum setting. Firstly, the trend was analysed from a socio-anthropological point of view: an attempt was made to understand the factors that led to the birth of the trend by referring to the readings of society according to the interpretations of Zygmunt Bauman and Vanni Codeluppi. Subsequently, the trend was analysed in correlation with the human body: through a historical excursus between trends and fashions from the early 20th century to the present day, it is examined in depth how the style in question was also theorised from the point of view of forms, probing influences and inspirations. Next, there is the chapter dedicated to the object of research, in which the Avant Apocalypse is introduced and how it is permeated in society is investigated. Here, the most influential exponents of the trend are introduced: an inevitable selection has narrowed the focus to five designers with distinctive characteristics and concerns the Berlin-based duo Ottolinger, New York-based Weiran, Oriens founder Shirley Tang, Sini Saavala and Chelsea Kaya, promising fashion students. At this point, a brief but necessary digression was made on the concept of iconicity in fashion and it was compared to the world of industrial design, coming to understand how it is now outdated: we have in fact entered an era in which icons are ephemeral and, above all, are found more in experiential and sensorial situations, no longer in material objects.Finally, it was analysed how fashion was celebrated in museum contexts, examining displays and installations related to the world of fashion, but also to art and technology, in order to understand how to effectively design an exhibition dedicated to the trend. This leads to the final part of the research, in which the design of a temporary exhibition dedicated to the Avant Apocalypse called "Hyper Void" is proposed, the aim of which is to provide an interdisciplinary look at the theme with the support of multimedia devices and props. The design of the exhibition focused above all on the attempt to achieve a strong sensorial rendering of the environment and the spatial translation of the inspirations that influenced the trend; thus, great attention was paid to the finishes, choice of materials and sensory perceptions. In the first instance, a careful selection was made regarding the choice of site: the decision to set up the exhibition in Spazio Maiocchi reflects an analysis of the Milanese social context. It is in fact an extremely dynamic space, the protagonist of numerous events related to the world of design and fashion, and the catalyst of an underground social substratum that is increasingly in turmoil. Moreover, the ex-industrial aesthetics of the space accurately match the project theme. Subsequently, the space was studied in order to allow an ideal exhibition fruition, which would promote both an informative and sensorial experience, with all the relevant analyses attached, arriving at a design concept that could be proposed in an executive perspective.| File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/208581