The research lies at the intersection of Fashion Design, Fashion Curation, Digital Humanities and Human-Computer Interactions (HCI) to identify if and how the digitalisation of cultural patrimonies and archival collections affects their knowledge expansion and representation attempts, with consequent effects on users’ agency concerning research and fruition practices. The research purpose is achieved by outlining and validating innovation scenarios emerging from integrating media technologies within fashion, luxury, and generally, the whole applied arts & crafts field, defined by nature Cultural and Creative Industries (CCIs). Indeed, being part of the traditional manufacturing culture and advocating for societies’ acculturation, the fashion industry creates, produces, and distributes cultural goods and related services bearing and embedding socio-cultural and aesthetic representations as well as intangible know-how related to material and techno-scientific culture. This constitutes what has been referred to as Fashion Cultural Capital (FCC), the stock of cultural value embodied in a fashion artefact, the result of production and consumption processes whose study provides rich insights related to cultural patterns. Over time, FCC has been stored and preserved within archives, a context recently challenged by innovation dynamics leveraging mediation and re-mediation practices enabled by digital technologies. This scenario has proven valuable in bringing about change in terms of knowledge circulation and dissemination and is leading to the design of hybrid experiences aimed at representing and disseminating FCC knowledge through the collaborative agencies of technologies. The research aims to establish a new ontology for the archive, capitalising on the potential of digital technologies to redefine existing FCC through innovative fruition models, also fostering research streams concerning the design of creative and production processes originating from the archive. This will be achieved by (i) analysing and modelling existing curatorial practices in culture-oriented fields pinpointing the ecosystem of actors and the significant drivers of change, (ii) validating the existent panorama related to knowledge representation practices and approaches in fashion, culture-intensive domains (iii) conceptualising design-oriented, phenomenological innovation trajectories enabled by HCI to unfold knowledge from the archive to coax new cultural practices, (iv) validating the depicted framework through design-driven approaches aimed at curating and representing FCC through diverse tech-aided practices. Methodological actions and research activities will be introduced to provide an overview of how Research through Design and practice-based approaches will be employed to execute the outlined research proposals, thereby obtaining specific results and making contributions to the knowledge within the field of fashion.
La ricerca si colloca all'intersezione tra Fashion Design, Fashion Curation, Digital Humanities e Human-Computer Interactions (HCI) per identificare come la digitalizzazione dei patrimoni culturali e delle collezioni archivistiche influenzi i tentativi di espansione e rappresentazione della conoscenza, con conseguenti effetti sulle possibilità offerte dagli utenti riguardo alle pratiche di ricerca e fruizione. L'obiettivo della ricerca è raggiunto delineando e validando scenari di innovazione che emergono dall'integrazione delle tecnologie multimediali nel campo della moda, del lusso e, più in generale, nelle arti applicate, ambiti definiti per natura Industrie Culturali e Creative (CCI). Infatti, essendo parte della cultura manifatturiera tradizionale e sostenendo processi di acculturamento delle società, l'industria della moda crea, produce e distribuisce beni culturali e servizi correlati che portano e incorporano rappresentazioni socio-culturali ed estetiche, nonché un know-how intangibile relativo alla cultura materiale e tecnico-scientifica. Questo costituisce quello che nella tesi è stato definito Fashion Cultural Capital (FCC), il patrimonio di valore culturale incorporato in un artefatto di moda, risultato di processi di produzione e consumo il cui studio fornisce ricche intuizioni relative ai modelli culturali. Nel tempo, questo patrimonio culturale è stato archiviato e preservato negli archivi, un contesto recentemente sfidato dalle dinamiche di innovazione che sfruttano pratiche di mediazione e ri-mediazione abilitate dalle tecnologie digitali. Questo scenario si è rivelato prezioso per apportare cambiamenti in termini di circolazione e diffusione della conoscenza e sta portando alla progettazione di esperienze ibride volte a rappresentare e diffondere la conoscenza del FCC attraverso le agenzie collaborative delle tecnologie. Alla luce di questo contesto, la ricerca mira a stabilire una nuova ontologia per l'archivio, capitalizzando il potenziale delle tecnologie digitali per ridefinire il FCC esistente attraverso modelli di fruizione innovativi, promuovendo anche flussi di ricerca riguardanti la progettazione di processi creativi e produttivi originati dall'archivio. Questo sarà realizzato mediante (i) analisi e modellazione delle pratiche curatoriali esistenti nei campi orientati alla cultura, individuando l'ecosistema degli attori e i principali fattori di cambiamento, (ii) validazione del panorama esistente relativo alle pratiche e agli approcci di rappresentazione della conoscenza nei domini ad alta intensità culturale della moda, (iii) concettualizzazione di traiettorie fenomenologiche di innovazione orientate al design abilitate da interazioni uomo-computer per svelare la conoscenza dall'archivio e suscitare nuove pratiche culturali, (iv) validazione del quadro delineato attraverso la progettazione di approcci guidati dal design volti a curare e rappresentare il FCC attraverso diverse pratiche assistite dalla tecnologia. Saranno introdotte azioni metodologiche e attività di ricerca per fornire una panoramica su come la Ricerca attraverso il Design e gli approcci basati sulla pratica saranno impiegati per eseguire le proposte di ricerca delineate, ottenendo così risultati specifici e contribuendo alla conoscenza nel campo della moda.
Archiving fashion futures. Design-driven curatorial practices fostering innovation in CCIs
Vandi, Angelica
2023/2024
Abstract
The research lies at the intersection of Fashion Design, Fashion Curation, Digital Humanities and Human-Computer Interactions (HCI) to identify if and how the digitalisation of cultural patrimonies and archival collections affects their knowledge expansion and representation attempts, with consequent effects on users’ agency concerning research and fruition practices. The research purpose is achieved by outlining and validating innovation scenarios emerging from integrating media technologies within fashion, luxury, and generally, the whole applied arts & crafts field, defined by nature Cultural and Creative Industries (CCIs). Indeed, being part of the traditional manufacturing culture and advocating for societies’ acculturation, the fashion industry creates, produces, and distributes cultural goods and related services bearing and embedding socio-cultural and aesthetic representations as well as intangible know-how related to material and techno-scientific culture. This constitutes what has been referred to as Fashion Cultural Capital (FCC), the stock of cultural value embodied in a fashion artefact, the result of production and consumption processes whose study provides rich insights related to cultural patterns. Over time, FCC has been stored and preserved within archives, a context recently challenged by innovation dynamics leveraging mediation and re-mediation practices enabled by digital technologies. This scenario has proven valuable in bringing about change in terms of knowledge circulation and dissemination and is leading to the design of hybrid experiences aimed at representing and disseminating FCC knowledge through the collaborative agencies of technologies. The research aims to establish a new ontology for the archive, capitalising on the potential of digital technologies to redefine existing FCC through innovative fruition models, also fostering research streams concerning the design of creative and production processes originating from the archive. This will be achieved by (i) analysing and modelling existing curatorial practices in culture-oriented fields pinpointing the ecosystem of actors and the significant drivers of change, (ii) validating the existent panorama related to knowledge representation practices and approaches in fashion, culture-intensive domains (iii) conceptualising design-oriented, phenomenological innovation trajectories enabled by HCI to unfold knowledge from the archive to coax new cultural practices, (iv) validating the depicted framework through design-driven approaches aimed at curating and representing FCC through diverse tech-aided practices. Methodological actions and research activities will be introduced to provide an overview of how Research through Design and practice-based approaches will be employed to execute the outlined research proposals, thereby obtaining specific results and making contributions to the knowledge within the field of fashion.| File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/221392