This thesis explores the comprehensive landscape of the manufacturing chain with a focus on textile fibres, environmental impacts, and sustainable practices within the fashion industry. The first chapter delves into the classification and properties of textile fibres, including natural, synthetic, blended, regenerated cellulose, organic, and inorganic fibers. It examines fabric construction methods such as weaving, knitting, felting, crocheting, and lace making. Additionally, it covers dyeing and finishing processes, highlighting both natural and synthetic dyes, and essential finishing techniques like singeing, de-sizing, scouring, bleaching, and mercerisation. The second chapter discusses the environmental impact of the fashion system, including water and energy use, waste and pollution, microfibre pollution, and carbon emissions. It also covers the potential for sustainable practices and the role of policy and consumer behavior. Life cycle assessment (LCA) and end-of-life waste management are analyzed, alongside the principles and applications of the circular economy. The chapter also explores ecosystem functions, erosion, and conservation strategies, and provides a glossary of sustainable terminology. It concludes with a discussion on the Planetary Boundaries Framework and the 2030 Sustainable Agenda, emphasising the fashion industry's role in achieving the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). The third chapter focuses on the consumption and pollution of primary resources, greenhouse gases, microplastics, and strategies for recycling, repurposing, and upcycling waste. It reviews the current state of pollution, future projections, key policies, and technological innovations aimed at reducing environmental impact. The fourth chapter analyses occupational health risks associated with dye exposure, European regulations for worker protection, and the impact of fast fashion on policies and fair trade. It explores solutions to decrease chemical use, such as natural dyes, enzymatic treatments, digital printing, and waterless dyeing techniques. The chapter also includes an interview with a management engineer on strategies for chemical risk prevention and workplace safety, discussing elimination and isolation of hazardous chemicals, operational safety measures, automation, health monitoring, workplace design, job rotation, and collaboration with health professionals. Furthermore, it examines correlations between physical and mental health problems in hostile workplaces and proposes mitigation strategies. The final chapter presents innovations in sustainable manufacturing, with a case study by the Laudes Foundation on sustainable processes in dyehouses. It explores chemical circularity, digital innovations in dyeing, and challenges in implementing sustainable practices. European certifications, policies, and incentives for sustainability are discussed, alongside case studies of start-ups developing new materials like algae-based ink and sustainable textile printing. This thesis aims to provide a holistic understanding of the textile and fashion industry's complexities, emphasising the need for sustainable practices and innovations to safeguard environmental and human health.
Questa tesi esplora il panorama completo della catena di produzione con un focus sulle fibre tessili, gli impatti ambientali e le pratiche sostenibili nell'industria della moda. Il primo capitolo approfondisce la classificazione e le proprietà delle fibre tessili, comprese le fibre naturali, sintetiche, miste, la cellulosa rigenerata, le fibre organiche e inorganiche. Esamina i metodi di costruzione dei tessuti come la tessitura, la maglieria, l'infeltrimento, l'uncinetto e la produzione di merletti. Inoltre, copre i processi di tintura e finitura, evidenziando sia i coloranti naturali che sintetici e le tecniche di finitura essenziali come la bruciatura dei peli superflui, il desizing, il lavaggio, la sbiancatura e la mercerizzazione. Il secondo capitolo discute l'impatto ambientale del sistema moda, includendo l'uso di acqua ed energia, i rifiuti e l'inquinamento, l'inquinamento da microfibre e le emissioni di carbonio. Copre anche il potenziale delle pratiche sostenibili e il ruolo delle politiche e del comportamento dei consumatori. Vengono analizzati la valutazione del ciclo di vita (LCA) e la gestione dei rifiuti a fine vita, insieme ai principi e alle applicazioni dell'economia circolare. Il capitolo esplora anche le funzioni degli ecosistemi, l'erosione e le strategie di conservazione, fornendo un glossario di terminologia sostenibile. Si conclude con una discussione sul Framework dei Limiti Planetari e l'Agenda 2030 per lo Sviluppo Sostenibile, sottolineando il ruolo dell'industria della moda nel raggiungimento degli Obiettivi di Sviluppo Sostenibile (SDGs). Il terzo capitolo si concentra sul consumo e l'inquinamento delle risorse primarie, i gas serra, le microplastiche e le strategie per il riciclo, il riuso e l'upcycling dei rifiuti. Rivede lo stato attuale dell'inquinamento, le proiezioni future, le principali politiche e le innovazioni tecnologiche mirate a ridurre l'impatto ambientale. Il quarto capitolo analizza i rischi per la salute occupazionale associati all'esposizione ai coloranti, le normative europee per la protezione dei lavoratori e l'impatto della fast fashion sulle politiche e il commercio equo. Esplora soluzioni per diminuire l'uso di sostanze chimiche, come i coloranti naturali, i trattamenti enzimatici, la stampa digitale e le tecniche di tintura senza acqua. Il capitolo include anche un'intervista con un ingegnere gestionale sulle strategie per la prevenzione dei rischi chimici e la sicurezza sul lavoro, discutendo l'eliminazione e l'isolamento delle sostanze chimiche pericolose, le misure di sicurezza operative, l'automazione, il monitoraggio della salute, la progettazione del luogo di lavoro, la rotazione dei compiti e la collaborazione con i professionisti della salute. Inoltre, esamina le correlazioni tra problemi di salute fisica e mentale in ambienti di lavoro ostili e propone strategie di mitigazione. L'ultimo capitolo presenta innovazioni nella produzione sostenibile, con uno studio di caso della Laudes Foundation sui processi sostenibili nelle tintorie. Esplora la circolarità chimica, le innovazioni digitali nella tintura e le sfide nell'implementazione delle pratiche sostenibili. Vengono discusse le certificazioni europee, le politiche e gli incentivi per la sostenibilità, insieme a studi di caso di start-up che sviluppano nuovi materiali come l'inchiostro a base di alghe e la stampa tessile sostenibile. Questa tesi mira a fornire una comprensione olistica delle complessità dell'industria tessile e della moda, enfatizzando la necessità di pratiche sostenibili e innovazioni per salvaguardare la salute ambientale e umana.
Sustainable textile processing: an in-depth analysis of environmental and workers well-being in the fashion industry
Fiorilli, Elisa
2023/2024
Abstract
This thesis explores the comprehensive landscape of the manufacturing chain with a focus on textile fibres, environmental impacts, and sustainable practices within the fashion industry. The first chapter delves into the classification and properties of textile fibres, including natural, synthetic, blended, regenerated cellulose, organic, and inorganic fibers. It examines fabric construction methods such as weaving, knitting, felting, crocheting, and lace making. Additionally, it covers dyeing and finishing processes, highlighting both natural and synthetic dyes, and essential finishing techniques like singeing, de-sizing, scouring, bleaching, and mercerisation. The second chapter discusses the environmental impact of the fashion system, including water and energy use, waste and pollution, microfibre pollution, and carbon emissions. It also covers the potential for sustainable practices and the role of policy and consumer behavior. Life cycle assessment (LCA) and end-of-life waste management are analyzed, alongside the principles and applications of the circular economy. The chapter also explores ecosystem functions, erosion, and conservation strategies, and provides a glossary of sustainable terminology. It concludes with a discussion on the Planetary Boundaries Framework and the 2030 Sustainable Agenda, emphasising the fashion industry's role in achieving the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs). The third chapter focuses on the consumption and pollution of primary resources, greenhouse gases, microplastics, and strategies for recycling, repurposing, and upcycling waste. It reviews the current state of pollution, future projections, key policies, and technological innovations aimed at reducing environmental impact. The fourth chapter analyses occupational health risks associated with dye exposure, European regulations for worker protection, and the impact of fast fashion on policies and fair trade. It explores solutions to decrease chemical use, such as natural dyes, enzymatic treatments, digital printing, and waterless dyeing techniques. The chapter also includes an interview with a management engineer on strategies for chemical risk prevention and workplace safety, discussing elimination and isolation of hazardous chemicals, operational safety measures, automation, health monitoring, workplace design, job rotation, and collaboration with health professionals. Furthermore, it examines correlations between physical and mental health problems in hostile workplaces and proposes mitigation strategies. The final chapter presents innovations in sustainable manufacturing, with a case study by the Laudes Foundation on sustainable processes in dyehouses. It explores chemical circularity, digital innovations in dyeing, and challenges in implementing sustainable practices. European certifications, policies, and incentives for sustainability are discussed, alongside case studies of start-ups developing new materials like algae-based ink and sustainable textile printing. This thesis aims to provide a holistic understanding of the textile and fashion industry's complexities, emphasising the need for sustainable practices and innovations to safeguard environmental and human health.File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/222538