Sustainability is a concept that encompasses environmental and economic aspects, defining an approach to development that aims to meet the needs of the current population without jeopardizing resources for future generations (Brundtland, 1987). The discussion of sustainable fashion is paramount because the fashion industry is linked to the use of critical resources such as land, water, plants, and animals. Today's overproduction of clothing requires an unsustainable increase in energy and is irreversibly depleting natural resources. Additionally, the current economic models in the fashion industry have contributed to exacerbating social inequalities in many regions where production is concentrated. Excessive demand for clothing and inadequate protection of workers has led to inhumane working conditions, insufficient wages, and even situations of modern-day slavery. So, when we talk about sustainability in fashion, we mean adopting a new model that measures the demand for goods based on the availability of resources, including human resources, with the goal of promoting social equity. The crucial question to ask is: if we continue to produce at such high rates, what will we leave for future generations? Ethical and sustainable fashion is not merely a trend based on aesthetic standards or persuasive narratives for buyers. Instead, it represents a global approach where consumers can make a significant impact by avoiding unnecessary purchases. The mechanism of supply and demand involves two key players, buyers, and sellers, both engaged in the system's operation. If in recent decades the fashion industry has convinced the public that fifty-two collections a year are essential, sustainable fashion seeks to revolutionize this dynamic. The fashion industry must embrace a radical change, rethinking the entire process from project ideation to material selection and the packaging phase, with a strong focus on environmental sustainability and social justice. This thesis aims to thoroughly examine the complex supply chains of fashion companies through detailed analysis of both audits and back-office activities. Specifically, it focuses on the use of advanced software to track relationships between direct suppliers and subcontractors, ensuring transparency and compliance in the supply chain. One of the main objectives of this work is the development of a new user-friendly portal, designed to enable suppliers to efficiently update their data. This portal will serve as an important tool for promoting collaboration and communication among the various parties involved in the supply chain. This software allows for accurate tracing of connected activities, facilitating the monitoring and timely resolution of any issues that may arise. Thereafter, the investigation continued with the objective of analyzing and researching what are to date innovative materials for high-luxury garments. The focus shifted from the analysis of innovative fibers to their implementation and research throughout the Supply Chain, proposing a parallel study between the importance of supply chain traceability and transparency and the need for circularity and innovation in terms of materials. In particular, an analysis tool was proposed that aims to study and collect data inherent to the impact of materials, finished products, analyzing 6 key pillars such as Greenhouse Gas Emission, Waste, Water Consumption, Air Pollution, Water pollution, Land Use. Through the study and implementation of these solutions, this research aims to provide a significant contribution to improving the management and governance of company supply chains in the fashion sector, promoting sustainable and responsible practices.
La sostenibilità abbraccia sia gli ambiti ambientali che economici, definendo un approccio allo sviluppo volto a soddisfare i bisogni dell'attuale popolazione senza compromettere le risorse destinate alle generazioni future. La moda sostenibile è un argomento centrale di discussione perché l'industria della moda è strettamente legata all'utilizzo di risorse cruciali come terra, acqua, piante e animali. La sovra-produzione di abbigliamento oggi richiede un aumento insostenibile di energia e sta esaurendo in modo irreparabile le risorse naturali. Inoltre, i modelli economici attuali dell'industria della moda hanno contribuito ad aggravare le disuguaglianze sociali in molte regioni in cui è concentrata la produzione. La smodata domanda di abbigliamento e la scarsa tutela dei lavoratori hanno portato a condizioni di lavoro disumane, salari insufficienti e addirittura situazioni di schiavitù moderna. Perciò, quando parliamo di sostenibilità nella moda, intendiamo adottare un nuovo modello che misuri la domanda di beni in base alla disponibilità di risorse, comprese le risorse umane, con l'obiettivo di promuovere l'equità sociale. La questione cruciale da porci è: se continuiamo a produrre a ritmi così elevati, cosa lasceremo nel futuro? La moda etica e sostenibile non è semplicemente una tendenza basata su canoni estetici o narrazioni persuasive per gli acquirenti. Rappresenta piuttosto un approccio globale in cui il consumatore può avere un impatto significativo evitando acquisti superflui. Il meccanismo della domanda e dell'offerta coinvolge due attori chiave, acquirenti e venditori, entrambi impegnati nel funzionamento del sistema. Se negli ultimi decenni l'industria della moda ha convinto il pubblico che 52 collezioni all'anno sono essenziali, la moda sostenibile cerca di rivoluzionare questa dinamica. L'industria della moda deve abbracciare un cambiamento radicale, ripensando l'intero processo, dall'ideazione dei progetti alla selezione dei materiali e alla fase di confezionamento, con un forte focus su sostenibilità ambientale e giustizia sociale. Questa tesi si propone di esaminare approfonditamente le complesse filiere delle aziende di moda attraverso un'analisi dettagliata sia degli audit sia delle attività di backoffice. In particolare, si focalizza sull'impiego di software avanzati per tracciare le relazioni tra i fornitori diretti e i subfornitori, al fine di garantire la trasparenza e la conformità nella catena di approvvigionamento. Uno degli obiettivi principali di questo lavoro è lo sviluppo di un nuovo portale user-friendly, progettato per consentire ai fornitori di mantenere aggiornati i propri dati in modo efficiente e rappresenterà un importante strumento per promuovere la collaborazione e la comunicazione tra le diverse parti coinvolte nella filiera. Questo software permette una tracciabilità accurata delle attività connesse, facilitando il monitoraggio e la risoluzione tempestiva delle eventuali criticità. In seguito, l'indagine è proseguita con l'obiettivo di analizzare e ricercare quelli che sono ad oggi dei materiali innovativi per capi di alto lusso. Si è passati dall’analisi di fibre innovative alla realizzazione e ricerca delle stesse attraverso tutta la Supply Chain, proponendo uno studio parallelo tra l’importanza della tracciabilità e trasparenza della filiera e la necessità di una circolarità e innovazione in termini di materiali. In particolare, è stato proposto un tool di analisi che mira allo studio e la raccolta di dati inerenti all’impatto dei materiali, dei prodotti finiti, analizzando 6 pillars fondamentali quali GreenHouse Gas Emission, Waste, Water Consumption, Air Pollution, Water pollution, Land Use. Attraverso lo studio e l'implementazione di queste soluzioni, questa ricerca mira a fornire un contributo significativo al miglioramento della gestione e della governance delle filiere aziendali nel settore della moda, promuovendo pratiche sostenibili e responsabili
Material innovation and sustainability: transforming fashion and luxury through a transparent and advanced supply chain
Desiato, Domenico
2023/2024
Abstract
Sustainability is a concept that encompasses environmental and economic aspects, defining an approach to development that aims to meet the needs of the current population without jeopardizing resources for future generations (Brundtland, 1987). The discussion of sustainable fashion is paramount because the fashion industry is linked to the use of critical resources such as land, water, plants, and animals. Today's overproduction of clothing requires an unsustainable increase in energy and is irreversibly depleting natural resources. Additionally, the current economic models in the fashion industry have contributed to exacerbating social inequalities in many regions where production is concentrated. Excessive demand for clothing and inadequate protection of workers has led to inhumane working conditions, insufficient wages, and even situations of modern-day slavery. So, when we talk about sustainability in fashion, we mean adopting a new model that measures the demand for goods based on the availability of resources, including human resources, with the goal of promoting social equity. The crucial question to ask is: if we continue to produce at such high rates, what will we leave for future generations? Ethical and sustainable fashion is not merely a trend based on aesthetic standards or persuasive narratives for buyers. Instead, it represents a global approach where consumers can make a significant impact by avoiding unnecessary purchases. The mechanism of supply and demand involves two key players, buyers, and sellers, both engaged in the system's operation. If in recent decades the fashion industry has convinced the public that fifty-two collections a year are essential, sustainable fashion seeks to revolutionize this dynamic. The fashion industry must embrace a radical change, rethinking the entire process from project ideation to material selection and the packaging phase, with a strong focus on environmental sustainability and social justice. This thesis aims to thoroughly examine the complex supply chains of fashion companies through detailed analysis of both audits and back-office activities. Specifically, it focuses on the use of advanced software to track relationships between direct suppliers and subcontractors, ensuring transparency and compliance in the supply chain. One of the main objectives of this work is the development of a new user-friendly portal, designed to enable suppliers to efficiently update their data. This portal will serve as an important tool for promoting collaboration and communication among the various parties involved in the supply chain. This software allows for accurate tracing of connected activities, facilitating the monitoring and timely resolution of any issues that may arise. Thereafter, the investigation continued with the objective of analyzing and researching what are to date innovative materials for high-luxury garments. The focus shifted from the analysis of innovative fibers to their implementation and research throughout the Supply Chain, proposing a parallel study between the importance of supply chain traceability and transparency and the need for circularity and innovation in terms of materials. In particular, an analysis tool was proposed that aims to study and collect data inherent to the impact of materials, finished products, analyzing 6 key pillars such as Greenhouse Gas Emission, Waste, Water Consumption, Air Pollution, Water pollution, Land Use. Through the study and implementation of these solutions, this research aims to provide a significant contribution to improving the management and governance of company supply chains in the fashion sector, promoting sustainable and responsible practices.| File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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2024_07_Desiato_Executive Summary.pdf
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2024_07_Desiato_Tesi.pdf
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/222755