In 2003 UNESCO defined Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH) as practices, representations, knowledge, and skills that communities and individuals recognize as part of their cultural heritage. ICH is manifested as oral traditions, expressions, performing arts, social practices, and traditional craftsmanship. It can be transmitted from generation to generation and provides communities with a sense of belonging and identity (UNESCO, 2003). The fashion system is based on the accumulation of knowledge through different generations and relies heavily on heritage as an added value and, conserving this knowledge is of extreme importance for future generations (Calanca & Capalbo, 2018). Craftspeople are considered the guardians of this knowledge, expertise, and skills, but, due to the fact that their preservation relies on knowledge transferring (from experienced craftspeople to beginners) and since it is hard to compete with mass produced goods, the risk of disappearance of these traditional craft techniques is very high (Casciani & Vandi, 2022). This thesis will be centered around traditional manual craftsmanship that play an important role in the fashion industry, analyzing their historical evolution, cultural significance, and the challenges they have faced over the years. This thesis aims to investigate if technology can revamp, repurpose, facilitate, and give value to manual crafts that are in risk of dying. This will involve a thorough examination of the manufacturing processes of all the selected crafts, analyzing and comparing the different steps, tools and knowledge required to achieve the final product when done by hand, with the aid of machines, and using advanced technologies. It will explore if modern technological advancements can indeed breathe new life into age-old fashion techniques, making them relevant in today’s fast-paced, tech-driven world. Additionally, the thesis will explore case studies that focus on the preservation, validation, and innovation of crafts, assessing whether these approaches can address the current challenges facing traditional craftsmanship.
Nel 2003 l’UNESCO ha definito il Patrimonio Culturale Immateriale (PCI) come pratiche, rappresentazioni, conoscenze e competenze che le comunità e gli individui riconoscono come parte del loro patrimonio culturale. Il PCI si manifesta come tradizioni orali, espressioni, arti performative, pratiche sociali e artigianato tradizionale. Può essere trasmesso di generazione in generazione e fornisce alle comunità un senso di appartenenza e identità (UNESCO, 2003). Il sistema moda si basa sull’accumulazione di conoscenze attraverso diverse generazioni e fa fortemente affidamento sul patrimonio culturale come valore aggiunto e, la conservazione di queste conoscenze è di estrema importanza per le generazioni future (Calanca & Capalbo, 2018). Gli artigiani sono considerati i custodi di queste conoscenze, competenze e abilità, ma, poiché la loro preservazione dipende dal trasferimento di conoscenze (da artigiani esperti a principianti) e poiché è difficile competere con la produzione di massa, il rischio di scomparsa di queste tecniche artigianali tradizionali è molto alto (Casciani & Vandi, 2022). Questa tesi sarà incentrata sull’artigianato manuale tradizionale che svolge un ruolo importante nell’industria della moda, analizzandone l’evoluzione storica, il significato culturale e le sfide affrontate nel corso degli anni. L’obiettivo di questa tesi è indagare se la tecnologia può rinnovare, riproporre, facilitare e valorizzare l’artigianato manuale a rischio di estinzione. Questo comporterà un’analisi approfondita dei processi di produzione di tutti i mestieri selezionati, esaminando e confrontando i diversi passaggi, strumenti e conoscenze necessari per ottenere il prodotto finale quando realizzato a mano, con l’ausilio di macchinari e utilizzando tecnologie avanzate. Si esplorerà se i progressi tecnologici moderni possono davvero infondere nuova vita nelle antiche tecniche di moda, rendendole rilevanti nel mondo frenetico e orientato alla tecnologia di oggi. Inoltre, la tesi esaminerà casi studio che si concentrano sulla conservazione, validazione e innovazione dell’artigianato, valutando se questi approcci possano affrontare le sfide attuali che l’artigianato tradizionale deve affrontare.
Fading memories: can technology really revamp, enhance and give value to traditional craftsmanship techniques in fashion?
Dello Preite Castro, Giulia Margherita
2023/2024
Abstract
In 2003 UNESCO defined Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH) as practices, representations, knowledge, and skills that communities and individuals recognize as part of their cultural heritage. ICH is manifested as oral traditions, expressions, performing arts, social practices, and traditional craftsmanship. It can be transmitted from generation to generation and provides communities with a sense of belonging and identity (UNESCO, 2003). The fashion system is based on the accumulation of knowledge through different generations and relies heavily on heritage as an added value and, conserving this knowledge is of extreme importance for future generations (Calanca & Capalbo, 2018). Craftspeople are considered the guardians of this knowledge, expertise, and skills, but, due to the fact that their preservation relies on knowledge transferring (from experienced craftspeople to beginners) and since it is hard to compete with mass produced goods, the risk of disappearance of these traditional craft techniques is very high (Casciani & Vandi, 2022). This thesis will be centered around traditional manual craftsmanship that play an important role in the fashion industry, analyzing their historical evolution, cultural significance, and the challenges they have faced over the years. This thesis aims to investigate if technology can revamp, repurpose, facilitate, and give value to manual crafts that are in risk of dying. This will involve a thorough examination of the manufacturing processes of all the selected crafts, analyzing and comparing the different steps, tools and knowledge required to achieve the final product when done by hand, with the aid of machines, and using advanced technologies. It will explore if modern technological advancements can indeed breathe new life into age-old fashion techniques, making them relevant in today’s fast-paced, tech-driven world. Additionally, the thesis will explore case studies that focus on the preservation, validation, and innovation of crafts, assessing whether these approaches can address the current challenges facing traditional craftsmanship.| File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/230442