The jewelry industry, along with its supply chain, constitute complex systems that have positively affected the global economy as well as potentially harmed the environment and society due to resources exploitation. While consumers increasingly demand sustainable practices ensuring traceability from extraction to manufacturing, the current wave of globalization, has led to a fragmentation of the Supply Chain (SC), thereby exacerbating challenges in ensuring raw materials traceability. Therefore, providing accurate information about raw material origins and guaranteeing products traceability remains challenging. The high jewelry sector, with its limited natural resources and well-known poor working conditions, particularly necessitates responsible and transparent raw material sourcing. Consequently, the aim of this research is to design guidelines for the high jewelry industry, presenting and evaluating existing and innovative solutions for raw material traceability to advocate a transparent and responsible sourcing strategy. First, the research investigates the context in which sustainability is applied to fashion and jewelry industry, identifying main challenges and the research gap. Focusing primarily on the high jewelry sector and its colored gemstones (rubies, emeralds, and sapphires), it highlights SC fragmentation and challenges in achieving transparent sourcing through a design methodology. Subsequently, the research explores existing and innovative tools and technologies offering superior alternatives to paper-based methods in terms of verifiability, traceability, and security. To this end, it provides detailed guidelines for implementing innovative approaches and technologies to ensure raw material traceability. In conclusion, the research underscores opportunities and challenges while presenting future research directions and applications within the jewelry industry.
L'industria della gioielleria, insieme alla sua catena di approvvigionamento, costituisce sistemi complessi che hanno avuto un impatto positivo sull'economia globale, ma che hanno anche danneggiato l'ambiente e la società a causa dell’eccessivo sfruttamento delle risorse. Mentre i consumatori richiedono sempre più pratiche sostenibili che garantiscano la tracciabilità dall'estrazione alla produzione, l'attuale ondata di globalizzazione ha portato a una frammentazione della catena di approvvigionamento, aggravando così le difficoltà nel garantire la tracciabilità delle materie prime. Pertanto, fornire informazioni accurate sull'origine delle materie prime e garantire la tracciabilità dei prodotti rimane una sfida. Il settore dell'alta gioielleria, con le sue risorse naturali limitate e le condizioni di lavoro ben note e precarie, necessita in particolare di un approvvigionamento responsabile e trasparente delle materie prime. Di conseguenza, l'obiettivo di questa ricerca è definire linee guida per l'industria dell'alta gioielleria, presentando e valutando soluzioni esistenti e innovative per la tracciabilità delle materie prime, al fine di promuovere una strategia di approvvigionamento trasparente e responsabile. In primo luogo, la ricerca esplora il contesto in cui la sostenibilità viene applicata all'industria della moda e della gioielleria, identificando le principali sfide e il gap di ricerca. Concentrandosi principalmente sul settore dell'alta gioielleria e sulle sue pietre preziose colorate (rubini, smeraldi e zaffiri), evidenzia la frammentazione della catena di approvigionamento e le difficoltà nel raggiungere un approvvigionamento trasparente attraverso una metodologia di design. Successivamente, la ricerca esplora strumenti e tecnologie esistenti e innovative che offrono alternative superiori ai metodi cartacei in termini di verificabilità, tracciabilità e sicurezza. A tal fine, fornisce linee guida dettagliate per l'implementazione di approcci e tecnologie innovative per garantire la tracciabilità delle materie prime. In conclusione, la ricerca sottolinea le opportunità e le sfide, presentando le direzioni future della ricerca e le applicazioni all'interno dell'industria della gioielleria.
High jewelry meets sustainability : designing guidelines to promote traceability in the high jewelry supply chain
Antinarelli Freitas, Francesca
2024/2025
Abstract
The jewelry industry, along with its supply chain, constitute complex systems that have positively affected the global economy as well as potentially harmed the environment and society due to resources exploitation. While consumers increasingly demand sustainable practices ensuring traceability from extraction to manufacturing, the current wave of globalization, has led to a fragmentation of the Supply Chain (SC), thereby exacerbating challenges in ensuring raw materials traceability. Therefore, providing accurate information about raw material origins and guaranteeing products traceability remains challenging. The high jewelry sector, with its limited natural resources and well-known poor working conditions, particularly necessitates responsible and transparent raw material sourcing. Consequently, the aim of this research is to design guidelines for the high jewelry industry, presenting and evaluating existing and innovative solutions for raw material traceability to advocate a transparent and responsible sourcing strategy. First, the research investigates the context in which sustainability is applied to fashion and jewelry industry, identifying main challenges and the research gap. Focusing primarily on the high jewelry sector and its colored gemstones (rubies, emeralds, and sapphires), it highlights SC fragmentation and challenges in achieving transparent sourcing through a design methodology. Subsequently, the research explores existing and innovative tools and technologies offering superior alternatives to paper-based methods in terms of verifiability, traceability, and security. To this end, it provides detailed guidelines for implementing innovative approaches and technologies to ensure raw material traceability. In conclusion, the research underscores opportunities and challenges while presenting future research directions and applications within the jewelry industry.| File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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Final PhD Thesis_Francesca Antinarelli Freitas.pdf
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Descrizione: This thesis explores the intersection of sustainability and the high jewelry industry, focusing on the challenges of raw material traceability within the supply chain. The research emphasizes the need for sustainable practices, especially in the high jewelry sector, which is known for its limited natural resources and poor working conditions. It aims to design comprehensive guidelines for the high jewelry industry, evaluating both existing and innovative solutions to improve the traceability of raw materials from extraction to production. A key focus is placed on colored gemstones, such as rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, and how their sourcing can be made more transparent through the adoption of new design methodologies and technologies. Finally, the study investigates various tools and technologies that offer superior alternatives to traditional paper-based methods in terms of verifiability, security, and traceability. By proposing these innovative approaches, the thesis provides a framework for implementing responsible sourcing practices within the jewelry industry. Ultimately, it highlights both the opportunities and challenges of achieving sustainability and offers recommendations for future research and applications.
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32.42 MB
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32.42 MB | Adobe PDF | Visualizza/Apri |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/233633