The aim of this work is to define a complete picture of sustainability practices and existing drivers and barriers that respectively push and hinder firms in the luxury fashion industry to move towards the adoption of such practices. Secondly, the goal is to identify the common practices of the firms which are similar for context variables, drivers and barriers to sustainability. The adopted research methodology is the analysis of 12 exploratory, explanatory and retrospective case studies; the unit of analysis are the Italian brand owner companies. The information was collected through semi-structured interviews with skilled managers; in order to ensure triangulation of data, we consulted secondary sources too. The analysis of the cases led to the definition of a list of Supply Chain (SC) and organizational sustainability practices specific to each company of our sample. Then we analyzed the drivers and barriers that respectively pushed and hindered the adoption of these practices, and finally we defined the context variables that characterize each of the companies in the sample. On the basis of this analysis, the firms of our sample were grouped in four groups, each consisting of companies with common context variables, drivers and barriers to sustainability. The research results demonstrate that companies which belong to a certain group reflect the adoption of the same approach to sustainability, therefore a similar set of practices. This work is valuable as a general study of the practices, drivers and barriers to sustainability for several companies in the same sector; this research enriches the studies on sustainability for the Italian luxury fashion industry, in line with the growing public interest to the topic. Even if our sample is sufficiently big, it would be appropriate to validate the results through a comparable study with a much bigger sample, including also firms with mass market positioning, as none of the firms in our work has such a low brand positioning.
Il presente lavoro si propone di definire un quadro completo delle pratiche di sostenibilità esistenti e dei driver e delle barriere che rispettivamente spingono e ostacolano le aziende del settore fashion luxury a muoversi verso l’adozione di tali pratiche. In secondo luogo l’obiettivo è quello di individuare le pratiche comuni alle aziende simili per variabili di contesto, driver e barriere alla sostenibilità. L’approccio metodologico adottato è l’analisi di 12 studi di caso esplorativi, esplicativi e retrospettivi, aventi come unità di analisi le aziende brand owner italiane. Le informazioni sono state raccolte mediante interviste semi-strutturate a responsabili aziendali con competenze sul tema; per assicurare la triangolazione dei dati sono state consultate anche fonti secondarie. L’analisi dei casi ha condotto alla definizione di un elenco di pratiche di sostenibilità di Supply Chain (SC) e organizzative specifiche per ciascuna azienda del campione. Successivamente sono stati analizzati i driver e le barriere che rispettivamente hanno spinto e ostacolato l’adozione di queste pratiche, e infine si sono determinate le variabili di contesto che caratterizzano ognuna delle aziende del campione. In base a queste analisi, le aziende del campione sono state raggruppate in quattro Gruppi, ognuno costituito da aziende aventi variabili di contesto, driver e barriere alla sostenibilità simili. I risultati della ricerca dimostrano che l’appartenenza di un’azienda a un certo Gruppo si traduce nell’adozione di uno stesso approccio alla sostenibilità, e quindi di un set di pratiche simili. Il lavoro ha il valore di studio generale sulle pratiche, sui driver e sulle barriere alla sostenibilità di più aziende in riferimento ad uno stesso settore; la ricerca arricchisce gli studi sulla sostenibilità per le aziende italiane del settore fashion luxury, in linea con il crescente interesse pubblico al tema. Sebbene il campione di analisi sia sufficientemente numeroso, sarebbe opportuno validare i risultati con un campione più ampio e inoltre comprendente anche aziende di posizionamento mass market, non incluse nella ricerca.
La sostenibilità nella fashion luxury supply chain : pratiche, driver e barriere
BONTEMPELLI, VERONICA;FANI, VIRGINIA
2012/2013
Abstract
The aim of this work is to define a complete picture of sustainability practices and existing drivers and barriers that respectively push and hinder firms in the luxury fashion industry to move towards the adoption of such practices. Secondly, the goal is to identify the common practices of the firms which are similar for context variables, drivers and barriers to sustainability. The adopted research methodology is the analysis of 12 exploratory, explanatory and retrospective case studies; the unit of analysis are the Italian brand owner companies. The information was collected through semi-structured interviews with skilled managers; in order to ensure triangulation of data, we consulted secondary sources too. The analysis of the cases led to the definition of a list of Supply Chain (SC) and organizational sustainability practices specific to each company of our sample. Then we analyzed the drivers and barriers that respectively pushed and hindered the adoption of these practices, and finally we defined the context variables that characterize each of the companies in the sample. On the basis of this analysis, the firms of our sample were grouped in four groups, each consisting of companies with common context variables, drivers and barriers to sustainability. The research results demonstrate that companies which belong to a certain group reflect the adoption of the same approach to sustainability, therefore a similar set of practices. This work is valuable as a general study of the practices, drivers and barriers to sustainability for several companies in the same sector; this research enriches the studies on sustainability for the Italian luxury fashion industry, in line with the growing public interest to the topic. Even if our sample is sufficiently big, it would be appropriate to validate the results through a comparable study with a much bigger sample, including also firms with mass market positioning, as none of the firms in our work has such a low brand positioning.| File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/91853