For some time now sustainability has become a topic of great interest, both in the academic and business field and, particularly the fashion industry, seems one of the areas where the subject finds the most critiques. These critiques are highlighted by a literature still rather scarce, which lacks of insights about the implications of environmental and social issues among the different actors of the fashion supply chain. The present work, focused on the Italian market, try to bridge some of these gaps showing the problem from a double point of view: that of the brand owners and suppliers. To succeed in this endeavor we have analyzed a sample of 12 Italian fashion firms and just as many suppliers of first or second level. For each of the two groups was first conducted a within case analysis to explore the approaches and strategies used by companies to gain sustainability; after that we have focused on the drivers behind practices implemented. In a second moment, thanks to a cross study made upon the various cases, we have tried to formulate theories about trends. Finally, we have integrated of the two samples, with the aim of highlighting the effects produced by their interaction in terms of benefits and barriers to sustainability.
È diverso tempo ormai che la sostenibilità è diventata argomento di grande interesse, sia in ambito accademico che aziendale e, in particolare il settore del fashion, sembra uno degli ambiti in cui questo tema riscontra maggiore criticità. Tali criticità sono evidenziate da una letteratura ancora piuttosto carente, che manca di approfondimenti riguardo le implicazioni dei temi ambientali e sociali tra i diversi attori della fashion supply chain. Il presente lavoro, focalizzato sul mercato italiano, tenta di colmare parte di queste lacune mostrando il problema sotto una duplice veste: quella delle case di moda e dei fornitori. Per riuscire in questo intento è stato analizzato un campione di 12 aziende della moda italiane e altrettante aziende facenti parte della filiera del fashion in veste di fornitori di primo o secondo livello. Per ciascuno dei due gruppi è stata dapprima condotta un’analisi within case che esplorasse gli approcci e le strategie delle imprese nei confronti della sostenibilità, e quindi i driver alla base delle principali pratiche implementate. In un secondo momento, grazie uno studio trasversale sui diversi casi si è cercato di formulare delle teorie sulle tendenze in atto. Infine, sono stati integrati i risultati dei due campioni, con lo scopo di evidenziare gli effetti prodotti dalla loro interazione in termini di barriere e benefici alla sostenibilità.
La sostenibilità della supply chain del fashion italiano : confronto tra case di moda e fornitori
BAROCCHI, GUIDO
2013/2014
Abstract
For some time now sustainability has become a topic of great interest, both in the academic and business field and, particularly the fashion industry, seems one of the areas where the subject finds the most critiques. These critiques are highlighted by a literature still rather scarce, which lacks of insights about the implications of environmental and social issues among the different actors of the fashion supply chain. The present work, focused on the Italian market, try to bridge some of these gaps showing the problem from a double point of view: that of the brand owners and suppliers. To succeed in this endeavor we have analyzed a sample of 12 Italian fashion firms and just as many suppliers of first or second level. For each of the two groups was first conducted a within case analysis to explore the approaches and strategies used by companies to gain sustainability; after that we have focused on the drivers behind practices implemented. In a second moment, thanks to a cross study made upon the various cases, we have tried to formulate theories about trends. Finally, we have integrated of the two samples, with the aim of highlighting the effects produced by their interaction in terms of benefits and barriers to sustainability.File | Dimensione | Formato | |
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https://hdl.handle.net/10589/95923